Warco Saddle Stop

[editor@glue-it.com]

Although I'm not a big fan of lathe saddle stops I've got to the point where I thought it might be a good idea for certain repeat tasks and hence I've set out and made this for the Warco WM240B lathe.



The result is a cast iron block that hangs over the saddle and locks with a nut. The stop itself then is a threaded bar that has a simple locking knurled wheel. All quite simple to make and more details are here: Warco Saddle Stop

[scrdmgl]

Hi Nigel:

Excellent design and finish of the components. I only have a suggestion for you. Any and all stops (lathe saddle, milling vise, etc.) are better provided with a round or convex contact area. The idea being that is easy for chips and any other debris, to stick to a flat surface messing up the accuracy of the location. Less so to the said end thus shaped.

Cheers

Jorge

[suther51]

There have been several stops posted that I have taken notice of, so by chance you are the one that I will ask sense I finally have enough motivation to post a question about them. I do not believe that I have yet seen a post that clearly shows how the stop clamps to the ways of the lathe. Perhaps a picture of the clamp side will be answer enough. Does the clamp or lock nut simply register on the underside of the ways? To be honest I have not owned my lathe long enough to have thought to look at the underside of the ways to see how much of a ledge is there. My lathe is a 12x32 enco of 1990 vintage. Just getting started with it. Finding out that "good condition" can have a more varied meaning than I would have thought. Oh well live and learn. Thanks in advance.
Eric

[Frank S]

Most of the stop blocks I have used or encountered clamped like I have shown in the drawing picture

The basic block is milled to fit the way the clamp has a raised fulcrum to connect to the block held in place by a simple bolt from underneath
Some blocks will have the thread in the clamp and the bolt passing from the top .
the clamp will extend as far as required under the bottom of the way. usually depending on the size of the lathe it could be a little as .250" or as much as an inch or more.

[Frank S]

Eric, good condition is a poorly over used term when someone sells a machine.
Particularly if they are not a machinist or have not operated the machine in question. To them good condition may mean everything moves or it switches on and runs.
Rarely if ever are any spec sheets supplied stating current tolerances, back lash, run-out etc
I've found some machines for sale claiming to have been refurbished only to find out the seller had done the refurbishment using little more than cleaning solvents and spray paint. I have even bought some if the price was right and the paint job was good quality, Knowing that as long as there wasn't too much wrong with it I could scrape square and tighten up where needed and make a decent machine out of it

[scrdmgl]

How true it is Frank. The same word or definition, can have a different meaning for many people. That is akin as saying "an honest politician" when in fact is a contradiction in terms.

Cheers

George

[rossbotics]

Although I'm not a big fan of lathe saddle stops I've got to the point where I thought it might be a good idea for certain repeat tasks and hence I've set out and made this for the Warco WM240B lathe.



The result is a cast iron block that hangs over the saddle and locks with a nut. The stop itself then is a threaded bar that has a simple locking knurled wheel. All quite simple to make and more details are here: Warco Saddle Stop

Looks great, you did a nice job of it

Doug

[DIYer]

Thanks editor@glue-it.com! We've added your Lathe Saddle Stop to our Lathe Accessories category,
as well as to your builder page: editor@glue-it.com's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:

Lathe Saddle Stop by editor@glue-it.com

tags: lathe, stop

[suther51]

I took the opportunity to stop by my shop while walking the dog to night. The ledge under the way on the lathe is 1/4 inch. Adequate I should think. But this brings up another question, the total depth of the ledge is actually 11/16. The difference is accounted for by the presence of a gear rack. Now I have yet to find an answer for the existence of 2 means of powering the carnage up and down the ways, lead screw and gear rack. Lead screw would be more accurate I am thinking. Could the gear rack be for broaching? Take more stress? It has much more lash than the screw. Is this some sort of chineesium lost in translation? I have down loaded the owners manual for the enco and the apparent grizzly clone but found nothing there. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks
Eric

[suther51]

After a quick look the grizzly g4003 also has the rack. Must be some good reason for it just a newby to metal lathe work.
Eric