I hope you warm your stock by a fire before and after oiling. Takes a long time to dry but sure preserves the wood and easy to repair a ding.
Can't tast anything when used on cast iron except good food.
blkadder (Dec 16, 2017)
I made a mistake once trying to season a 2 qt cast iron pan I did my polishing on the inside then started slowly heating it until it was just beginning to show some colorization to teh polished surface I added in regular vegetable oil not noting that it was of the non fat variety. The oil just got hotter and hotter until it finally flashed over after it was finished and I had cleaned up the pan with salt once it had cooled I noticed that it hadn't glazed like other pans and skillets had done. It was then that I realized it was the fats in which ever oil you use that has to caramelize into the open pores of the metal once they cool and close it is the trapped crystalline particles left from the fats that actually serve to prevent foods from sticking.
Just like was mentioned about the ferrous magnetite once it is polished off to become smooth then sealed with the fats from the oils
I've never used flax seed for anything and have only used linseed for treating wood so I cannot comment on its use
But I do know that pure old rendered hog lard was the preference back in the day. But you know your skillet is well seasoned when you can cut up a batch of potato wedges skin on and fry them to golden brown in just a table spoon of fresh churned butter without having to scrape them out of the bottom you have done your job.
Never try to tell me it can't be done
When I have to paint I use KBS products
For the record Flax seed oil IS Linseed oil. As long as it is raw you can season cast iron with it or any other vegetable oil or animal fat of your choice. Pork fat or lard was used if you had pigs, tallow if you had cattle or sheep. As far as I have been able to find out the move to vegetable oils or fats was due to some having very high smoke points and as mentioned by someone else when polymerized seal the pores and remain unaffected by normal cooking temperatures.
Mid Winter here and pouring rain so not going to head out and attack the barbeque anytime soon but here's something related to looking after metal. I've found that Grape Seed oil oxidizes quite quickly out of a sealed container and painted on equipment I don't use that often or which is exposed like the bit of lathe bed under the chuck that the saddle does not contact but gets splashed if a soluble oil is used dries to give a reasonably waterproof coating,(indoor use only). Oil any mating/sliding surfaces with mineral oil first so nothing gets gummed up and only paint on bits easy to get to. I don't mind a brown colored covering as long as it isn't rust.
My wife has her Aunts cast iron cookware, most of it is Le Creuset enameled cast iron, and it is pretty awesome stuff. We also got a couple of cast iron pans that needed some love. I followed the tutorial here, and the pans are as non stick as our old aluminum pans. We have passed the aluminum pans to our youngest daughter, and now we use pretty much cast iron for all of our stuff. We would like to find an old griddle, and add it to our collection. I do make sure that the Linseed oils are kept in different places, so we don't confuse the boiled and the raw. I have to say that the Garand stock likes the boiled Linseed oil better than the raw. Semper Fi.
Ron
...Semper Fidelis...
NortonDommi (Dec 16, 2017)
The wife told me she was tired of my complaining about our sauce pans we have several 2 & 3 qt size SS and 1 non coated mystery metal 2 qt. too heavy to be aluminum too light to be cast iron dull finish inside and out but it cooks well. it is just that it is the only one that has the proper side height in relation to the diameter The SS pans are fine but low sides. SO she said the next time we have to drive to the city she doesn't care if it takes us all day to locate them we are going to buy several old and rusty or new cast iron pans of every size we can find I said great as long as we buy a medium and a large dutch ovens and lids for all of them SO hopefully I will have some more curing to do soon.
Never try to tell me it can't be done
When I have to paint I use KBS products
What about ceramic cookware? I mean what is the difference between cast-iron cookware and ceramic cookware? And what is the defination of healthy ceramic cookware!
Last edited by cemransh; Jun 10, 2018 at 04:43 AM.
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I guess the main difference is that cast iron cookware is not just come coating that is infused onto a metal base.
I do in fact have one of those ceramicoat copper colored pans and the ceramic coated ones that came with both of my nuwave cook tops, I bought the copper one because when I was having to use a portable induction cook top it heated faster than the cast iron plus it was larger than the ones that came with the cook tops. My cast iron cookware is mostly Lodge brand and has a ridge ring on the bottom that is mostly there to direct the heat from a gas flame and it did not allow a large enough area of the induction cook top to heat perfectly.
But I find that since ceramic is a coating it begins to degrade from the very first use even if using silicone tools and not using a metal spatula Where as cast iron is through and through not a coating.
After polishing mine then seasoning them the way I did, now several years later they have only improved with age
Never try to tell me it can't be done
When I have to paint I use KBS products
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