Uses for worn multitool blades

[olderdan]

I have been wood floor laying lately and have worn out a couple of multitool blades in the process, as ever I hate to throw away something that can be further used so I experimented with them.
At work we had a pneumatic oscillating toolpost attachment for an old lathe for polishing tube forming mandrels which is what gave me the idea of using an electric alternative.
Multitools are a wood cutting and sanding item but with a few blade mods they can be used for a lot more.
Attaching an old toothbrush head makes a super grout cleaning tool, a small wire brush, a small fine grit stone for lapping parts, an alloy pad is good with diamond paste and those self adhesive furniture protective pads charged with a suitable medium, I am sure there are more uses to be found.
The speed these things run at makes short work of most tasks. The wire brush is one of the most effective as instead of the bristles trailing back and forth they actually work on the ends.
The blade bodies can be drilled so a couple of 3mm screws will attach most things. It is not worth machine mounting as hand held gives a better feel for what is going on. Mandrel speed about 100rpm.

[suther51]

I to hate to see these blades tossed, especially at the price to replace. I started trying to resharpen them with a Dremel set with a cut off blade. Hard to get the teeth right but they would cut. Then bought a set of diamond detail files, these work but most of the edges are too blunt to work properly. Sourced a diamond feather file on Amazon ment for sharpening Japanese style hand saw teeth but have not purchased yet. Last go got good results by putting a wave in the blade with a hand saw tooth setter, much to big to set teeth individually but would put a wave in the blade much like a hack saw blade. Still a work in progress but has proven to work and to be worth the time n effort. Time to dig the right tool box out of the truck and put back is the most prohibitive time wise, when I get the system down pat I will likely keep the tools more accessible. I have yet to build a dedicated box for all three multi tools, when I do the sharpening tools will likely reside there. Several uses vs one siutes me any day.
Eric

[old_toolmaker]

olderdan,

I have seen the multitools in the stores but have never owned one. For some strange reason I am seldom an early adopter of anything. Are they just a reincarnation of a detail sander?

[Beserkleyboy]

I got the first taste from a client about 2009. Went right out and got one...great for cutting nails and screws behind trim for removal (I do built in cabinet work), magic for cutting door jambs for flooring clearance and great for digging out rotten areas in rectangular shapes in timber work, such that easily made repairs can be spliced in. Great for cutting holes in drywall. Not used every day, mind you, but when the need arises, nothing else compares! But NOISY!! Makes an angle grinder seem quiet.....now maybe if they made one with an induction motor....Cheers guys

[old_toolmaker]

Beserkleyboy,

Thanks for the tip on the noise! I don't do much wood working or home remodeling but I can see the value when used on the right job.

[suther51]

When it comes to sanding I have yet to find them as good as a random orbit on wood or auto body, except where a random orbit wont fit, ie corners but they still dont leave a good surface, too many scratch marks. As a plunge cutting saw, with a sharp blade there is no compare- with one exception, my old Fien, too fast, too short a stroke = too much burn, with any blade I have tried in it. The m12 and m18 Milwaukees that I have correct this problem well. When i worked on old cars we tried them with rubbing compound on finish paint with shop grown felt pads, seemed they created too much heat. The paint would get a smeared look to it. This was before all the clones came out so fast and short stroke, the newer clones with longer strokes may work better. We did a tremendous amount of hand rubbing out of paint and were looking for better ways to do it. Back to the leather pads n rags by hand. Soo I can see the potential in polishing metal with them, right pad n right compound I can imagine good results but have not used them that way. Never know opportunity may come around the corner, so thanks Olderdan for the post.
Eric

[DIYer]

Thanks olderdan! We've added your Multitool Blade Recycling to our Miscellaneous category,
as well as to your builder page: olderdan's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:

Multitool Blade Recycling by olderdan

tags: hand tools

[olderdan]

olderdan,

I have seen the multitools in the stores but have never owned one. For some strange reason I am seldom an early adopter of anything. Are they just a reincarnation of a detail sander?

I believe these Multi tools are an adaptation of the saws used in hospitals for plaster cast removal, I had that done once and it was a bit scary. As for them being noisy I would say the decibels are about the same as an angle grinder but at a more irritating higher pitch.

[olderdan]

When it comes to sanding I have yet to find them as good as a random orbit on wood or auto body, except where a random orbit wont fit, ie corners but they still dont leave a good surface, too many scratch marks. As a plunge cutting saw, with a sharp blade there is no compare- with one exception, my old Fien, too fast, too short a stroke = too much burn, with any blade I have tried in it. The m12 and m18 Milwaukees that I have correct this problem well. When i worked on old cars we tried them with rubbing compound on finish paint with shop grown felt pads, seemed they created too much heat. The paint would get a smeared look to it. This was before all the clones came out so fast and short stroke, the newer clones with longer strokes may work better. We did a tremendous amount of hand rubbing out of paint and were looking for better ways to do it. Back to the leather pads n rags by hand. Soo I can see the potential in polishing metal with them, right pad n right compound I can imagine good results but have not used them that way. Never know opportunity may come around the corner, so thanks Olderdan for the post.
Eric

Burning out the blades on these things is a common complaint, I started out like that until realising it was caused simply by clogging, if you can let the blade move around in use the dust can escape, they are not much good at a straight plunge unless withdrawn to clear. BTW I have found the cheap blades last just as long as the branded ones. I agree they are not much good at sanding.

[threesixesinarow]

Burning out the blades on these things is a common complaint, I started out like that until realising it was caused simply by clogging, if you can let the blade move around in use the dust can escape, they are not much good at a straight plunge unless withdrawn to clear.

I made narrower, thicker cutters, maybe 3/16” square, to see if they were any good for pilotless mortising, and cut grooves down the middle for the dust. The coarsest one was best and works okay for basswood and yellow poplar.