Universal Grinder Fine Feed Adjuster

[jjr2001]

This is a very nice surprise. Thank you Jon.

Homemadetools.net has become my favorite internet resource. I have been reading it for a few years now and just decided to post a few of my own shop made tools. I find ideas for tools that I need and even ones that I don't need but would be nice to have. It is funny but I started out with this machining hobby to make parts for my model airplane hobby and maybe a steam engine model. So far I have made a lot more tools for the shop than parts for the airplanes! I do have one airplane which is the F4 in my avatar for this site. All of the parts for the F4 were CNC cut with my CNC Router way before the Mini lathe and Mini Mill arrived in my shop. Matter of fact my airplane hobby is taking a way back second seat to machining!

Thanks again, John

[jjr2001]

Hi JR
The finish you have on the anvil is quite acceptable, what is your motor speed and grinding wheel spec?

Cheers MM

Thank you Sir, I am just running a "standard" coarse wheel that came with the grinder. It is a 3450 rpm motor. The finish has improved since I added the fine feed adjuster.

Thanks again, John

[PJs]

This is a very nice surprise. Thank you Jon.

Homemadetools.net has become my favorite internet resource. I have been reading it for a few years now and just decided to post a few of my own shop made tools. I find ideas for tools that I need and even ones that I don't need but would be nice to have. It is funny but I started out with this machining hobby to make parts for my model airplane hobby and maybe a steam engine model. So far I have made a lot more tools for the shop than parts for the airplanes! I do have one airplane which is the F4 in my avatar for this site. All of the parts for the F4 were CNC cut with my CNC Router way before the Mini lathe and Mini Mill arrived in my shop. Matter of fact my airplane hobby is taking a way back second seat to machining!

Thanks again, John

Congratulations John, Well deserved! I have to say you have Prolifically contributed some great stuff in a short time. Thank you for sharing all of it with us!! Welcome to the world of making tools to make tools then to make stuff! The idea of using a ramp for fine adjust is great and simple to do and using a DTI for movement is always simple. Actually its funny because I came up with similar solution (a double wedge) recently for moving a motor with worm to a spur gear for a music box I'm building for my grand son. I had tried to build a gear box but because of the gear ratios (30:1) it was almost impossible to turn the crank by hand also without disengaging the motor, which wasn't a pretty prospect. It'll be solar powered or hand crank.

Was wondering about that F4 in your avatar...is it RC? Used to do U-control a hundred years a go...AMA "A" Rat Race, Stunt, etc. but did pick up an RC Quad Copter Car a while back for my son, G-son and I to play around with. My son and I did rockets for several years too when he was around 10. His teacher ask us to do a demo for the class so he built a Foxfire and I built an SR71....they loved it and we did too.

Thanks for all the great posts and contributions! ~PJ

[jjr2001]

Thanks PJ,
The F4 is indeed RC. It sports a 90mm EDF and is powered by a 6S 5000mah battery. I built that one from scratch using parts made with my CNC Router. My son got me back into RC in about 2006. Funny thing is I am still flying them and he is a bit busy with life at this time but I am sure he will be back to the hobby.

I added an engraved knob to my fine feed assembly. It worked out nice since 10 rotations moved the wedge exactly .100". The knob has .001 major graduations and .0005 sub divisions so it is plenty fine for the machine.

Cheers, JR

[jotasierra]

FELICITACIONES JJR, los esfuerzos y la inventiva se premian y más se premia cuando no hay intereses mezquinos y se comparte todo en bien común como es por lo visto la actitud general del foro, gracias por compartir y que sirva de ejemplo a todos aquellos que ingresan en este sitio.:Pulgares hacia arriba::aplausos:

[jjr2001]

Thank you jotasierra
I started making tools to make parts for my models and now I seem to make more tools than models....

Cheers, John

[jjr2001]

I added graduations for my fine feed adjuster knob. The long lines are .001" vertical movement and the short lines will move the grinder by .0005". Works good for what I need right now. I still need to work on overall accuracy and I would like to improve the finish of the grind.

Cheers, JR

[PJs]

Looks Real good JR...should be close enough for sure. Nice knurls too.

On the other RC note, how much thrust do those EDF's usually generate? The 6s 90mm one that I looked at was about 3kg and the motor/fans are a half kilo...wouldn't think you'd have much flight time on 5A...don't know much about them but pricey little beggars. 90mm is pretty good size for an RC. Thrust to weight I do know a bit about. Don't mean to hijack your fine build thread...just curious.

Thanks again for sharing your builds with us and please keep up the great work! ~PJ

[jjr2001]

Hi PJs,
The EDF in my F4 is pulling about 1500 watts and about 5 lbs thrust. You get about enough time to go around the field 3 times and land! If you are up longer than that she will dead stick and you don't have much left to take home! My F4 is not 1:1 thrust and weights about 7 lbs. There are EDF jets that are pushing 25 lbs and more and like all good EDF jets they get 3 to 4 minutes of flight time. Limiting factor for me is the battery temperature. I do not like to see them hot. Some will push them over 120 degrees and that is really hard on the lipo. I do not fly the F4 in the summer at all.

My power system is a bit old and the efficiency would be better with one of the newer systems. Don't fly this one too much as the edf jets are a handful. I prefer the pattern style prop jobs and fly a home brew Ms. Norway. Built from RCM plans. I can get about 6 minutes of really good flying with that one.


Really enjoy having the grinder in the shop.

Cheers, JR

[ncollar]

Hi,
Really a good idea, it can give very precise adjustments with a minimum of calculation, but only if you don't forget the geometry lessons when young at school…

All that math is alright if that is the way you do it. I would put a mark on the face of the knob with a marker and a DTI, make one revolution of knob, then figure out how many lines you would like to put on the dial. If one rev is .0010 then 10 lines would be .0001 per line. No math to error.
Nelson