bobs409 (May 6, 2017), Jon (Dec 5, 2019), NortonDommi (May 9, 2017)
Thanks KustomsbyKent! We've added your Clamp Plate Forming Tool to our Brakes and Presses category,
as well as to your builder page: KustomsbyKent's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:
New plans added on 12/18/2024: Click here for 2,637 plans for homemade tools.
KustomsbyKent (May 6, 2017)
The making of the clamps is great but I have to say as someone who used to build 'rollcages' for a living there is no way I would like to be in anything that had a 'roll-cage' clamped together. I've seen even tabbed,(reinforced), welds show signs of tearing after a bad smash. The thought of tube sliding on tube and sharp edges is very, very scary.
The plates will be welded to the tubes so that there will not be any sliding action. This is only on the back down bars to the secondary rear hoop and is there to protect the engine area. The front portion of the cage is welded solidly together. The top of the down bar is pinned to the main hoop with solid steel pins that insert into the tube. The solid steel pins are welded to the main hoop. The bottom of each down bar ends in 1/4" thick plates that are bolted to the 4"x4"x1/4" square tube frame. The rear roll hoop is bolted in 4 places to the engine cradle that is made of 1/4" plate steel.
Also, this vehicle has a top speed of 7mph and is not competing in any competitions.
What would be your recommendations for designs for making this area removable? I'm open to suggestions.
Paul Jones (May 9, 2017)
Hello Kent,
I did not know the exact use. Please accept my appologies for jumping the gun, I had a horrible vision of people assembling an entire roll -cage and clmping it together with loose clamps
I would have suggested a slip fit onto a stub tube with a pin similar to what it sounds like you have done that would put the pin in double shear which a suitable size pin would handle with ease especialy if there was a tube welded in the stub for the pin. Replace the pin with a bolt and a nut welded externaly would work to.with a lock nut and wire as well of course. Givin the fact the rear bar needs to be removable and where the clamp is your solution is fine, the only other approuch would be square plates bolted together and placed between the tubes and each welded to the adjacent tube in line with the tube axis.
Different strokes for different folks.
I love your clamps by the way and I will be copying them for all sorts of things.
Cheers,
-Barry.
Thanks Barry!
It's good to have some other alternatives in the back pocket for future use.
I've got solid steel pins on the frame where the main roll cage attaches, they are definitely a solid way to attach, but a bit heavy for all areas.
Hello Kent,
I managed to watch your entire video today,(froze last time),which is why I did not get to see all you had done, very impressive as was you site.
I have a friend that collects Chyslers & Dodges and will tell him about your Plymouth.
By the way are you going to sleeve the bolts between the clamps? A bit of 16g tube would be sufficient. Just a thought.
Have a good one,
- Barry.
KustomsbyKent (May 9, 2017), Paul Jones (May 9, 2017)
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