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Thread: Treadmill motor adaptation for Bridgeport type mill.

  1. #41
    Supporting Member Isambard's Avatar
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    So why not a VFD?

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    Supporting Member machiningfool's Avatar
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    machiningfool's Tools
    The treadmill drive is variable, what is the problem?

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    Supporting Member machiningfool's Avatar
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    The treadmill drive is variable, what is the problem? Is that all that you do is make smart ass comments?, or do you have any positive input that would help? Sounds like to me that you haven't got enough to do but to knock what other people are doing.

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    Supporting Member Isambard's Avatar
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    Since when is a question, a comment?
    As for your setup, cost, time wise and appearance, a VFD, would have been a better bet.
    However, seeing as your mill has manufacturers variable speed capability,
    it would appear as it is you, who nothing better to do than fit a manky setup on his mill.

  5. #45
    Supporting Member machiningfool's Avatar
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    Obviously you have a problem with reading comprehension. You completely missed the reason that there was a motor addition at all. It had nothing to do with installing a variable speed motor. It so happened the the motor that I had sitting on the shelf was a powerful dc variable speed motor and the expensive mill motor was toast and I didn't want to spend a large amount of money just to spin the spindle. The motor could have been a fixed rpm motor, but I had the variable speed motor off of a treadmill, and it worked very well without spending a lot of money. In my view, you hurried through the story so that you could get to your real motivation, from reading some of your other posts about other people's projects, and that is to bash their endeavors. I can only guess that somehow you get a buzz out of that.
    What is notable is that if you had read the reason for this motor addition, you wouldn't have made an issue of a VFD in the first place.

  6. #46
    Supporting Member Toolmaker51's Avatar
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    OK, this started ~2015. Unsure how it went overlooked but vari-speed is terrific on many small and intermediate machines.
    Yeah, bigger machines, I prefer speed change via gear boxes; but those operate under different parameters.
    Last edited by Toolmaker51; Apr 10, 2023 at 07:39 PM.
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    I find Thread-mill motors very useful, and are my go-to for any work-shop project. I source my PWB/Controller from Ali Express, changing 240Volts to 180V DC, with continous variable output. Have built a 50" belt sander. re-powered a Buffer, which my father built in 1950, using a foot operated Singer sewing-machine ! Next I intend to use another Threadmill Motor to power an oscillating Sanding Bobbin.... my ultimate goal is to add a scoring motor/blade (counter-rotating the main blade) on my table-saw; to score melamine covered MDF etc..problem is to find such a small scoring blade with same kerf as the main blade (about 3.2 mm..)

  8. #48
    Supporting Member Toolmaker51's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigal001 View Post
    I find Thread-mill motors very useful, and are my go-to for any work-shop project. I source my PWB/Controller from Ali Express, changing 240Volts to 180V DC, with continous variable output. Have built a 50" belt sander. re-powered a Buffer, which my father built in 1950, using a foot operated Singer sewing-machine ! Next I intend to use another Threadmill Motor to power an oscillating Sanding Bobbin.... my ultimate goal is to add a scoring motor/blade (counter-rotating the main blade) on my table-saw; to score melamine covered MDF etc..problem is to find such a small scoring blade with same kerf as the main blade (about 3.2 mm..)
    The ideal blades might be metal slitting cutters, very much like wood-cutting blades, somewhat comparable geometry and all. Smallest common diameters are about 2", to around 6",tremendous range of imperial & mm widths.
    They won't have typical 5/8" arbor hole, nothing bushings couldn't fix.

    Talk about scoring and variations of: Those familiar with the sort of gripping surfaces on the slide of a semiauto pistol, i.e. 1911's; the serrations were milled by a stack of such blades, spaced apart with thin shims to just flatten the crest a bit.
    One pass, conventional milling, flood coolant.



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    Last edited by Toolmaker51; Apr 11, 2023 at 01:42 PM.
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