Very rare Truck. Makes my 1924 Model T 1 ton a common vehicle, even with the 2 speed Ruckstell rear axle.
I'll have to take some close up pictures of the motors and drives.
But yes there is a reduction drive I'm not exactly sure what the ratio is.
there were 2 different voltage motors used on these trucks some had 85/90volt DC motors some had 60volt motors and different sizes for the smaller 1/2 through 3 ton trucks. C.T. designed most of the componentry for the truck not all parts were made by C.T. Such as the Batteries are Edison nickel Iron in this one but some of them had lead acid Some of the trucks had Westinghouse motors and a few had General electric both manufactures made them for C.T. the ceramic insulators and screw in sockets were off the shelf items of the time.
You need to remember until last week I had forgotten all about this truck other than I knew Eddy was bringing it to me for he and I to restore eventually right now it is in a preservation state. When we start on it he will have to source some old growth white Oak trees and I will come up with a band saw and probably a circular saw mill
He is of the mind that he can just have a miller cut him the lumber to the sizes he wants and that will be that but if the truck is to match original then the saw lines should match as well to include the proper tooth pitch of the era. A lot depends on how close to a factory match he will allow me to re fabricate the truck
There are some missing and broken forgings that I am positive I will have to make unless he already has an assortment of them in the container packed in and around the Factory 4 wheel drive 59 ford that was disassembled to the last bolt some of those parts have been refurbished and many have not
possibly not this truck but some of the trucks in the fleet pulled a trailer which also had batteries and motors in each wheel.
this truck has the receptacle for the trailer control but none of the drawbar parts there are only the 2 holes where it may have been mounted.
Last edited by Frank S; Nov 5, 2020 at 07:27 PM.
Never try to tell me it can't be done
When I have to paint I use KBS products
That's the sort of restorations I like, the machine needs to look exactly the way it left the factory. Mint condition. That can be hard to do.
I watched a video the other day of some back alley shop in India rebuilding 12 volt auto batteries. Lots of recycling of the original components. I assume that will be a major task.
I recall that the 6 volt battery used on the electric start Ford Model T, were rebuilt. Their price was crazy from seeing it listed in a price sheet, ~$85, that would probably be $3K in today's cost.
Good luck with the restoration. Seems your too busy to start thinking retirement.
You found time by putting off other little things that needed doing, like throwing together a work shed.
I tell you what I've learned about it - I was born to be retired and wish I had done it years ago because it suits me just right. Every day is Saturday now.
If you can't make it precise make it adjustable.
KustomsbyKent (Nov 9, 2020)
Your posts always seem to be a guy working on a commercial shop for hire (trailer, diesel repair). That's why I assumed you were retired from working for others with a paycheck, but still a hire-able "prostitute".
I'm a year younger then you, and in big need of another shop building as 2600 sq. ft. is too cluttered to have all the machinery accessable. And I have two trucks to get under cover, a 1.5ton 56 Chevy model 4100, and a 3/4ton 57 Chevy model 3600. Both have horrible body cancer from the salt infected by previous owners. On that subject, is there some off the shelf chemicals that will neutralize the salt that has berried into the steel, that keeps doing what it does of iron to iron oxide? I've seen products from Eastwood, but do they work, or just a sealant, and would like to not pay them for something if common.
How did the antique airbrake tanks turn out? I'm amazed you made your own heavy duty sheet rolling machine, for this.
Well I finally got both trailers I had been working on out of the shop so I can get back to laying down some more fill between 6 to 10 inches needs to be laid down in some areas to bring the floor up to 6 to 8 inches below finished floor level
so the way I have been adding fill is to add a few yards at a time then drive back and forth hundreds of times then add more. I plan to build it up above where I want it then build a 2 or 3 blade scraper to drag all over the floor to make it level then I will probably till it to a depth of 6 to 8 inches while mixing in an enzyme and lime stabilizer with water, level it again then convert my scraper to 2000 lb. double roller mount my plate packer on it and slowly roll that over it until the clay sand fill is packed to 125% compaction then try not to use the shop for anything for a month while the enzyme reacts in the soil. what this will do will be make the surface hard and nearly dust free similar to creating 6 to 8inch layer of caliche then later once I can afford to lay in the rebar and pour concrete I'll put down a layer of sand pour the concrete and have a lasting floor
Never try to tell me it can't be done
When I have to paint I use KBS products
metric_taper very few years out of my over 55 years+ of working have I ever been a wage slave I have almost always either been on my own doing it my way or the highway type of an attitude or I had thrown in with companies for a % of the companies sometimes taking a set yearly salary or merely living off of an expense account hedging on a settlement of the profits this sometimes worked in my favor and other times costing me my entire life's savings. But that is the chance you take.
My last venture of the 10 years prior to my deciding to pull the plug should have had me sett for life when things turned south I decided rather than make a bunch of attorneys rich I'd be better off to chock it up to yet another lesson learned walk away with what I had left and forget about what should have been
Never try to tell me it can't be done
When I have to paint I use KBS products
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