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Thread: Threading Head Wrenches.

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    Supporting Member Crusty's Avatar
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    Threading Head Wrenches.

    I've just put together a dedicated threading station using a Ridgid Supreme Versatapper and an old Craftsman drill press. Though I got a great deal on the threading head it didn't come with wrenches for the chuck or a rotation stop bar so yesterday I made them. The wrenches were made from ¼" steel plate, slots milled, bandsaw cut and smoothed and descaled with an angle grinder. I wanted to try the Blue Wonder Gun Blackening kit that I bought a while back and I have to say that I'm impressed - if you spend some time dressing the metal surface I think you could restore a factory appearance to a firearm using it.


    Threading Head Wrenches.-wrenches.jpg

    Here's a shot of my threading station and though it appears nothing to write home about, it works perfectly. All in I have $130 in this project and I'm tickled to now be able to quickly and nicely thread holes in things. I'll make a cover for it today. The threading head was designed for use in a drill press and it has a built in 7:1 speed reduction so that the tap speed is just right and it reverses the tap out with up force applied to the quill.



    Threading Head Wrenches.-threading-station.jpg

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    If you can't make it precise make it adjustable.

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    baja (Nov 4, 2020), techcollect (Nov 3, 2020)

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    Thanks Crusty! We've added your Threading Head Wrenches to our Tapping and Threading category,
    as well as to your builder page: Crusty's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:




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    Quote Originally Posted by Crusty View Post
    I wanted to try the Blue Wonder Gun Blackening kit that I bought a while back and I have to say that I'm impressed - if you spend some time dressing the metal surface I think you could restore a factory appearance to a firearm using it.


    Crusty, One comment and one question
    I second that on finishing/refinishing. While I have had do overs I have never regretted the time spent putting a good finish on something.
    Not just a matter of pride in the work either but the long term value of the item to me to be serviceable and ready for use is not to be missed.

    The question: How much horsepower/torque is needed from the unit to run the Versatapper? i.e. how low could you go and not stress the unit?

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    Supporting Member Crusty's Avatar
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    It's only a ½ HP, 1725 rpm motor on the DP. I've got the belt set for the lowest rpm and with the Versatapper in the chuck it threads close to what I consider too fast (but not) so I think it's the ideal speed for threading. With correctly sized holes it threads a ½" thread in ¼" plate steel in seconds and the belt can always be left a little bit loose if I'm concerned about tap breakage. For me it's an inexpensive win since I got great deals on both the tapper and the DP. The chuck with tapper and tap takes up a lot of vertical space so it's more useful in a pedestal press than a benchtop press.

    Do you know Joe Pie's easy way to determine the proper hole size? Subtract one thread pitch length from the nominal diameter and that will give you around 65% threads. For instance, a ¼"x20 thread has a thread pitch length of 1/20" so, ¼-1/20 = .250-.050 = .200 and the closest drill is a #7 (.201 - always choose a bit larger than the actual calculated number) which results in 75% thread engagement or go larger for less thread engagement in steel (7/32" equates to 50% which is adequate).

    Due to the magic of gearing the Versatapper is also a torque multiplier. A replacement tap flex collet (J441 often missing on Ebay deals) can be purchased from McMaster-Carr).

    TapDrillSizes.pdf

    I use CRC True Tap fluid which is a low cost equivalent to TapMagic.

    I exercise care and attention to detail when I thread holes because it's a huge disappointment to break a tap in a part that I've spent hours making.



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    Last edited by Crusty; Nov 3, 2020 at 10:37 AM.
    If you can't make it precise make it adjustable.

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