threading chart wall

[Frank S]

Since me and handheld calculators don't seem to get along anymore. When I need to determine what diameter to turn or bore something to be threaded Particularly when I need to deal with threads like UNEF. Yes of course any thread can be calculated for major& minor dia., pitch and class tolerance. However, I prefer to take the lazy way out for time expedience when possible.
This was my motivation to create a wall of thread charts ranging from class 2&3 0-80 through class 1 2&3 11/2" 18TPI For quicker references there is a chart for the more common NC&NF both in fractional inch and mm, another for the dash SAE sizes used primarialy in hydraulics. another for NPT&BSP, plus 55° threads. A large chart for drill sizes from fractional to decimal to MM I have laminated all of the charts excepting for the large one to protect them and give them longevity.

[metric_taper]

I have similar charts up on the wall. I just want to grab the right drill size to tap a hole, quick. I even keep metric charts up, as so much is repairing broken stuff, and I keep the original design of the product in it's native measurement system.

[Frank S]

I I keep the original design of the product in it's native measurement system.

If you don't then the next guy will have real problems. Or if you warrantee your repairs and you altered the item with non-native measurement items, and it fails again you may wind up having to eat the item.

[metric_taper]

I recall the city I live near by, that had swimming pool that used filter equipment purchased from some German company in the 1960s (low bidder). The equipment had bastard metric fasteners, that were not in the DIN standard, but custom designed for the strength needed. So the town (Cedar Rapids, Ia) wanted a bond vote to refurbish the municipal pool with new equipment. And they used the problem of having to pay a local machine shop money when they needed the fasteners fabricated, or parts repaired with these bastard size threaded holes (and the local two TV stations repeated this propaganda). They got what they wanted, and every municipal pool got a major facelift with all sorts of colorful fiberglass slides splash ponds, and umbrellas. All that colored stuff is now faded, and a major maintenance problem. I'm now convinced that there is no place in the world that has intelligent government. They don't realize that the 'concrete' epitaph they built to their tenure, only stays pretty for a year or so, and then has to be torn down as ugly. I guess that's the cost of reelection, that I pay for. As for the German equipment, it was still working when they removed it in 2005. I bet the real problem was an incompetent city park board administrator that had to find a machine shop that could fab the needed component every 10 years or so.
I also recall John Deere tractors made in Germany in the early 60s, that had bastard thread fasteners. I used to go to an annual "Two Cylinder Club" tractor show that was originally here in Iowa, but now travels to other states where collectors have these sorts of tractors and implements for show. One collector (I chatted with) imported a used JD that was made by Duetz (sp?), and he was looking for someone to make missing bolts that held the wheels on (two of the six) were missing. There must have been a design mentality in Germany to make fasteners for the max design stress needed, and not oversize them by using the next standard fastener size. You've been around the world, you probability have seen this as well.

[DIYer]

Thanks Frank S! We've added your Threading Chart Wall to our Storage and Organization category,
as well as to your builder page: Frank S's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:

Threading Chart Wall by Frank S

tags: threading

[Frank S]

I r
There must have been a design mentality in Germany to make fasteners for the max design stress needed, and not oversize them by using the next standard fastener size. You've been around the world, you probability have seen this as well.

You might say that. I am working on a project where I need to thread the ID of 1 end, and the OD on the other end on a pair of SS tubes 1 is 1" OD with a .o83" wall thickness the other is 3/4" OD with a .065" wall thickness. As it turns out I was able to use UNEF threads for them 11/16-24 3/4-20 for 1 tube and 7/8-20 & 1-20 for the larger and still be able to maintain a max working pressure of around 2000PSI for both. I decided to single point thread them to about 60% completion then run taps or dies in or over the threads to finish off the threading this way I can assure myself in getting a good quality 2a possibly 3a thread. So I bought taps and dies for each thread size. I might decide to just go ahead and build a complete set of UNEF threading taps and dies up to 2" over time.

[wizard69]

Frank, you have a nice set of wall charts there, I just hope you can walk up real close to them or have better eyesight than me. This brings up the question does anybody make the large scale (36" or so high) wall charts anymore. They seem to be exceedingly hard to find new these days. I'm talking about charts that can be read from more than a few feet away by us old guys.

I've had such a hard time finding wall carts that I even contemplated the idea of making long lasting ones out of steel or aluminum and epoxy paint. I'm not exactly the businessman but I'd have to think that more than a few shops would appreciate having sizeable charts, of different types, available again. This even if they have to pay for them. At work the last remaining one is so faded that it is almost useless.

[WmRMeyers]

You might say that. I am working on a project where I need to thread the ID of 1 end, and the OD on the other end on a pair of SS tubes 1 is 1" OD with a .o83" wall thickness the other is 3/4" OD with a .065" wall thickness. As it turns out I was able to use UNEF threads for them 11/16-24 3/4-20 for 1 tube and 7/8-20 & 1-20 for the larger and still be able to maintain a max working pressure of around 2000PSI for both. I decided to single point thread them to about 60% completion then run taps or dies in or over the threads to finish off the threading this way I can assure myself in getting a good quality 2a possibly 3a thread. So I bought taps and dies for each thread size. I might decide to just go ahead and build a complete set of UNEF threading taps and dies up to 2" over time.

Mind telling me what the 7/8-20 tap and die cost? I know someone who thinks he might need a nut in that size.

Bill

[Frank S]

Mind telling me what the 7/8-20 tap and die cost? I know someone who thinks he might need a nut in that size.

Bill

I paid $26.20 for the 7/8-20 UNEF tap and die combination on ebay
$16.99 for my 7/8-24 UNS tap and die
$20.18 for the 3/4-20 UNEF tap and die
$18.58 for the 11/16 UNEF tap and die
$20.28 for a 1"-20 UNEF die
$ 22.51 for a 1"-20 UNEF tap
When possible I like to buy tap and die together also if it is something that can be chucked in my lathe I usually single point the threads most of the way to completion then finish off with a tap or die. This makes for clean threads and less wear on my taps and dies

[WmRMeyers]

I paid $26.20 for the 7/8-20 UNEF tap and die combination on ebay
$16.99 for my 7/8-24 UNS tap and die
$20.18 for the 3/4-20 UNEF tap and die
$18.58 for the 11/16 UNEF tap and die
$20.28 for a 1"-20 UNEF die
$ 22.51 for a 1"-20 UNEF tap
When possible I like to buy tap and die together also if it is something that can be chucked in my lathe I usually single point the threads most of the way to completion then finish off with a tap or die. This makes for clean threads and less wear on my taps and dies

Thanks! Make sense to me. Some of the threads I've done could have used a bit of smoothing. And it's not like I've done all that much threading to begin with. I'm going to file the serial number off that idea, and steal it!

Funny thing, the very first thread I cut single point after my HS class in 1973 was as nearly perfect as anything I've ever done in my life. I made a stub spindle for my Atlas TH42 and brought the original chuck that came with it for my test piece. It was nice and smooth and pretty. My teacher was impressed. Especially as I didn't have to redo it several times. The next several examples were not nearly so good. Finally, I realized I needed to slow down, and take my time, like I did with the stub spindle. I'll never make it in a production shop, but that's not my purpose anyway. So it's OK if it takes me a lot longer to do something. I just need to not get in a rush, and tone down the ADD a bit.

Bill