Slitting Saw Arbor..Precision..Near flush cut

[jjr2001]

I had this import slitting saw arbor but it had more runout than I liked. So off the the lathe.
I made this new one based on some ideas I found on the web including commercial ones.
It will approach the top of the vise by about 0.162" which betters my original by about 4 or 5 times.
I had cut the import down as much as I could but it was still too large.

I had seen one that simply made an arbor and them drilled the slitting saw for some flat head screws
which cuts flush. I may need to do one of that type some day but this works for now.

Using a 1.250" chunk of hot rolled mystery metal I made a new one that is a very close fit.
The retaining bolt is a 3/8-16 allen cap screw and so far it works quite well and gets up close.

Cheers, JR

[DIYer]

Thanks jjr2001! We've added your Slitting Saw Arbor to our Machining category,
as well as to your builder page: jjr2001's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:

Slitting Saw Arbor by jjr2001

tags: saw, arbor

[C-Bag]

Another parallel project JR to what I've been contemplating. I have a import slitter saw arbor that while runout is ok, the retainer is thick like your original. Of course it was in the way the last time I used it and wondered a couple of things.

I guess the retainer is so thick because they have not idea what you're going to try and cut with it. Mine also is stepped to take different size ID holes so it makes it so you can't down the retainer too much. But why don't any of the affordable arbors have a Keyway to take advantage of the key slot in the saw blade? I wondered how much you could cut down the retainer if you had a key? Seems like most of the torque of cutting would be taken care of and it would take minimum thickness of the retainer. Knowing you, you have already explored this.......

[mklotz]

Another parallel project JR to what I've been contemplating. I have a import slitter saw arbor that while runout is ok, the retainer is thick like your original. Of course it was in the way the last time I used it and wondered a couple of things.

I guess the retainer is so thick because they have not idea what you're going to try and cut with it. Mine also is stepped to take different size ID holes so it makes it so you can't down the retainer too much. But why don't any of the affordable arbors have a Keyway to take advantage of the key slot in the saw blade? I wondered how much you could cut down the retainer if you had a key? Seems like most of the torque of cutting would be taken care of and it would take minimum thickness of the retainer. Knowing you, you have already explored this.......

In a hobby environment you may not want a key. Slitting saws are brittle and hang up easily. With a key that means a broken blade.

In an industrial setting where centering, alignment, speeds and feeds are under tight control, a key probably makes sense. In Garaj Mahal I'd rather have the saw slip then be buying saws in gross lots.

[C-Bag]

Hmm, never noticed any slip, but I've never marked so I could observe slip. Another of those noob assumptions I guess.

[jjr2001]

Hi guys and thanks for all the comments. I did not use a key based on one build where
the builder stated that the clamping action of the hub was good enough to prevent slipping.
I am conservative in my feed speed and have never had any slippage that I knew of.

In my build I have a 3/8-16 cap screw holding a very beefy hub to the arbor and with the
slip fit, (quite tight actually) it is centered so much better than the import that all of the
teeth get their chance to cut.

So far I do not see a need for a key.

I think the motor on my mini mill would "slip" a few steps before the saw blade would slip.

Cheers, JR

[EclecticNeophyte]

Great design. I also have a runout problem with the arbor I purchased. This looks like a good solution, and will add it to my ever growing project list... -EN

[jjr2001]

Thanks Electric, I made it to get the better blade clearance but the best part is
that it is concentric and runs true. Large improvement in the import especially since
I only use 1" diameter blades.

I will be looking forward to see your version.

Cheers, JR

[wizard69]

Hmm, never noticed any slip, but I've never marked so I could observe slip. Another of those noob assumptions I guess.

I'm with mklotz on this one, with manual machining you are likely better off without a key. If the blade binds you want to stop as quickly as possible, but even doing so the blade can still shatter before you hit the stop button. Even so the cutting action of the blade often tightens the clamping mechanism so tight it really doesn't matter if there is a key or not.