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Thread: Simple Ejection Method For Lathe Tailstock Morse Taper Attachments

  1. #11
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    I've just used a very large open end wrench, or a very large adjustable wrench, between the tailstock housing and the taper attached device, same principle. ram slides through until the taper attached device butts up against the wrench and the wrench against the housing. This brass block takes up less space, so now I have to go make one for each of my lathes! Thanks for a brilliant idea.

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  2. #12

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    Just drop a suitable ball bearing in behind the dead center and you can pop it right out.

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  3. #13
    Supporting Member Toolmaker51's Avatar
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    Rest assured; lathe size is not part of ejection dilemma. This case, too short for a drift through the quill slot, as well. We had a 5MT held in a big Lodge & Shipley. I made a collar, it did the trick, most dependable, damage free of method of all. However, not all tooling has a diameter to interact with.

    You cannot 'just drop' something in and trust it to work. Too small, it can foul the screw, or quill travel, a couple thou too large,it could foul the taper itself.
    A reliable measurement is simple. 1] Roll up a short 'cigar' of modeling clay. 2] Retract quill just short of bottoming out. 3] Insert the tooling just short of seating. 4] Remove and measure the cigar length. 5] Turn a cylinder (using small end of taper as guide) that length + .100 or so.
    I'd use soft steel, or press ferrous material into the slug, to ease removal, if called for.
    Last edited by Toolmaker51; Jul 3, 2022 at 06:56 PM.
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  4. #14

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    I did say "appropriate sized" and I prefer the ball bearing for a dead center. No fishing it out, it just rolls back out of the taper. Sorry if the suggestion irritates you. I've been doing that for 40 years without a problem.

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    Well I guess I said "suitable", same implication

  6. #16
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    bainbob, Didn't direct my comment to shortchange your post, nor suggest irritation. 40 years indicates a successful technique. 'Appropriate' or 'Suitable' is too tempting a size range for a neophyte, without some guidance.There are loads here.
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    Supporting Member schuylergrace's Avatar
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    This is probably a dumb question, but why not just attach the spacer to the tailstock (D/F tape, if you don't want to drill and tap or weld)? Seems like the only thing it would affect is a tool that wouldn't have been kicked out via tang or long taper before it reached the limit of your tailstock spindle. And what lathe can't use a little "gold" bling?

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  8. #18
    Supporting Member Retro Steam Tech's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by schuylergrace View Post
    This is probably a dumb question, but why not just attach the spacer to the tailstock (D/F tape, if you don't want to drill and tap or weld)? Seems like the only thing it would affect is a tool that wouldn't have been kicked out via tang or long taper before it reached the limit of your tailstock spindle. And what lathe can't use a little "gold" bling?

    That would work just as well.



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