Shop Assembled Cutter Grinder

[pfredX1]

The traverse speed is critical to finish, and keeping the piece from heating up. A hot part tends to warp. That's no good. I've run into steels that even being careful they could not be ground dry. Surface grinding is a fairly finicky operation. At least it is in my experience with it. My experience came from rebuilding wheel dresser units at a place called J&S Tool. They made the Fluid Motion Wheel Dresser. Which was a pricey instrument. Even the rebuild wasn't cheap. Rebuilding one entailed resurfacing the entire device on surface grinders too. The spec was a thousandth of an inch, but we never let one go that was out by more than 500 millionths. Just how it was.

[jjr2001]

Thanks, that is great info. I did not think about the part getting hot, just the motor!
I will be keeping an eye on the temperature of the part and make sure to only take small cuts.

Cheers, JR

[pfredX1]

You can hold a piece of metal in your hand and change its dimensions. So friction grinding on metal really has an effect.

[jjr2001]

Good to know, thanks.

[tonyfoale]

I have good results with end mills. The ends are easy. The flutes are another thing. Hard to get a smooth run
with the setup I am using with the spin indexer. Results are acceptable for home shop but an air bearing would be better.
Cheers, JR

JR,

I have only been here for about a month and I have only just seen this. I recently posted my T&C machine based on a small mill. There are many similarities between the two. We obviously think along similar lines.
If you have a look at my post you will see how easy it can be to modify the Spindexer to use an air bearing. It makes doing the flutes much easier.

[Toolmaker51]

I have good results with end mills. The ends are easy. The flutes are another thing. Results are acceptable for home shop but an air bearing would be better.
One need is a fine feed on the carriage. The 1/2-10 lead screw is much too coarse. Cheers, JR

Most would vote air bearing. Need be, a longer spindle in the spin-dex and an air fitting through the body has been done. Adapting a set of linear guides carrying a collet might be a solution too.
Far as the stop screw goes; I'd keep the ACME and attach a clamp on stop, with Marv Klotz's differential screw and the potential of any increments you desire.

[jjr2001]

Thanks Tony, I like your spin indexer to air bearing indexer conversion and your T&C grinder. Looks like I might try it on mine. I can see how that would be much a smoother action when grinding the flutes.

Cheers, JR

[jjr2001]

Thanks TM51,
I actually have the fine feed stop already on the grinder. See post:http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/u...0461#post72517

I kept the 1/2-10 lead screw and just lower the grinder to the adjustable stop (fine feed) and I have about .100 inch of travel. It can resolve better than .0005". Works pretty good so far.

Cheers, JR

[ncollar]

JJR
What you could do to improve your grinder is take the long screw out and install a lever handle to push and pull the table rapidly from under the revolving wheel.
Very nice design, good luck and be very careful because when a wheel comes apart they move like shrapnel from a bomb.
Nelson

[jjr2001]

Thanks collar, I do have a guard for grinding wheels but it is not shown in the pictures.

Of course it the wheel frags I doubt the guard will contain it!
Safety glasses are a must when grinding but even with all the safety gear
a grinding wheel blowing up is bad news. Never had it happen and I
hope I never experience that.

Cheers, JR