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Thread: Rolling Mill

  1. #1
    Supporting Member Ralphxyz's Avatar
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    Rolling Mill

    I have finally got my Clausing 8520 Vertical Mill rolling!!Rolling Mill-dscn7737-1024x768.jpg

    My shop is relatively small, from my perspective so everything has to move.
    I have been working on this project for a year and a 1/2.

    Now I can easily move my mill, actually where it is now sitting might be it's permanent location.
    But I can move if necessary and lifting it will help me put shims under to level.

    Ralph

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    LMMasterMariner (Jun 12, 2017), Paul Jones (Jun 12, 2017)

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    I like this idea. What are the two vertical bits for? Nice to see more pics with it up and the lifter spread out

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    Supporting Member Ralphxyz's Avatar
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    The two vertical bits are to keep the lower wheeled assemble in line.
    Without the two vertical bits the lower piece would travel out from under the top piece, with a horrible thud.
    This keeps everything aligned.

    I will post some pictures with the lifter spread out, but it really only needs to lift the mill a 1/4" at best, just so that there is ground clearance.
    The lifters are Honda car jacks, they easily lift the mill.

    The link to my website shows more pictures.

    Ralph

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    Supporting Member Frank S's Avatar
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    When I first saw the thread name rolling mill my first thought was of the rolling mill I bought shortly before leaving Kuwait but was un able to ship it this is what I thought of
    Rolling Mill-cimg1998aa.jpg
    Rolling Mill-cimg2000aa.jpg
    It wasn't until I read your post that what It actually was was a means of rolling your mill around
    Nice elevating machinery trolleys though
    Last edited by Frank S; Jun 11, 2017 at 07:54 PM.
    Never try to tell me it can't be done
    When I have to paint I use KBS products

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    Supporting Member Toolmaker51's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank S View Post
    When I first saw the thread name rolling mill my first thought was of the rolling mill I bought shortly before leaving Kuwait but was
    unable to ship it this is what I thought of. It wasn't until I read your post that what It actually was was a means of rolling your mill around
    Nice elevating machinery trolleys though
    LoL, same here. All excited for a minute. No-ones posted a "Rolling Mill" yet.
    I've only used one, briefly. But what it could do to strip-stock; amazing.

    Ralphxyz's re-utilization of screw-op jacks is very clever, economical, and compact. I'll have to find one to play with and see what I can contrive.
    Sincerely,
    Toolmaker51
    ...we'll learn more by wandering than searching...

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    Paul Jones (Jun 12, 2017)

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    Supporting Member Frank S's Avatar
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    Not to contaminate this thread I will post in the off topic shop truths phrases and out right lies what I was planning to use my rolling mill for for
    Never try to tell me it can't be done
    When I have to paint I use KBS products

  10. #7
    Supporting Member Ralphxyz's Avatar
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    That's funny I knew there might be a conflict with using that term "Rolling Mill".

    The screw jacks work well, there are things to watch out for, like the need for the vertical stiffeners.
    If you jack one side higher than the other it is surprising how much more torque is needed to to raise the jack further, you understand real fast that you are dealing with considerable weight.

    The channel iron is 4" x 12" x 3/8", 18"+ would be more stable, and with 6" channel you could get full swivel with the swiveling castor.
    Again one only needs 1/4" ground clearance but it can go higher, with caution when moving. If really jacked up I would only roll front to back and
    not try to make any turns.

    At 1/4" you can spin it around.

    I started think about doing this a year and a half ago, finally got to put it together.
    It was fun I got to use my Harbor freight Inverter welder, which was perfect for this job, I got it on sale for $99.99.

    I also learned the usage of a boring bar, that was something I had not yet gotten to so that was fun.
    I only ruined two carbide boring bars. Finally got the feel for it, I will be doing a lot more boring I am sure.

    Ralph

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    Paul Jones (Jun 12, 2017)

  12. #8
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    Don't worry about 'conflicts', that's the fun part of HMT.net.
    Like my signature says about wandering vs. searching, if this was all neatly categorized, the experience would be lessened.
    Even typing into Search box, gets what you want and hilarious surprises.

    I fully believe, a stream-of-consciousness atmosphere deposits more useful wrinkles in grey matter vs. strict alphabetization. Far back as I recall, there were recommendations to skim a textbook first; and just see what items caught your attention. I'd always equated it to designing a house.
    Sure, a foundation is required to build it, but aren't drawn first, are they?

    And now on boring bars. A lot of people spend for carbide, but don't have rigid enough equipment [or power feed] to use it and have it last.
    HSS is the place to start.
    Sincerely,
    Toolmaker51
    ...we'll learn more by wandering than searching...

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    Paul Jones (Jun 12, 2017)

  14. #9
    Supporting Member Ralphxyz's Avatar
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    re: carbide boring bars "and have it last"??

    How long should a carbide boring bar last?

    The reason I ruined two carbide boring bars was just plain abusive, I did not wear them out I chipped/shattered them.

    Once I figured out how to use them everything went well, this was enlarging a 3/4" hole to 1 1/8" in/on the 3/8" channel iron.

    My mill is powered with a NEW Genuine CONSEW SERVO MOTOR CSM1000 FOR INDUSTRIAL SEWING CS1000 3/4HP | eBay . I was taking a 0.020 cut.

    I had plenty of power and stiffness on my Clausing 8520 mill.

    I have the Little Machine Shop 1266 boring tool with the 1630 2MT shank

    I have a real problem with the 2MT shank, the shank will not release from the spindle, with the Clausing Mill it is "suggested" that one "gently" tap
    on the Drawbar nut to release collets from the spindle. Well I am beating on a 3/8" brass rod in place of the drawbar with a 3 1/2# sledge hammer and the shank will not give.

    I am building a tapered wedge that I will beat in between the spindle and shank and I have the pieces coming to make up a screw enabled device.
    It has been suggested to heat up the spindle "very carefully", I have problems with the very carefully part.

    Any suggestions on how to release the shank?

    One has even said they had to disassemble the spindle and use a heavy press to get a stuck collett out.

    Ralph

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    Jon
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    Yes, DIY builds of rolling mills (as opposed to mills that roll) are pretty rare. We have a few listed from other sites: Homemade Tools: rolling mill - HomemadeTools.net

    Nice blog. Feel free to add a link to it in your forum signature, so you'll get some clicks with every post you make.
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