Thanks for posting. This was a great idea and will be using.
You're pretty much cold forging the Torx shape into the brass. Good and hard. But seems like a challenge to remove the tool after doing so. Secret?
Cupping the face converts it to actually cutting the shape. i.e. not as hard, easier to form the shape, and maybe easier to remove the tool after forming.
Good stuff
Had no problem at all removing the bit after forming. Wiggled it a bit with my fingers and it came right out. Really, this worked as easily as I documented it. I don't think it would have made any difference in the result if I had convex ground the tip prior to the forming. It's easy enough to do, try it and let us know what you think.
Mark
I cut them flat, but a dish would make the ape's banana eazyer to peal. Ive been using torques bit for almost 30 years for stuff like this.especialy on engine blocks with square head pipeplugs(steel) that are stuck and round out the holes with the proper remover's.just get the right sizz torques bit a few wacks and out they come. being a performance engine machinest/builder, Ive done a lot of those. some people like applying a lot of heat Ive never been a fan of flame on cast iron.for some reason the amuminum engine blocks dont have this issue....go figure. ( usualy replace all pipe plugs with brass on all engines. ezpecialy aluminum engines...witch in many cases have aluminum plugs or the kits sold are aluminum plugs....not good, dont even think of it.it's way to eazy to gauld aluminum with aluminum. I supose if weight was a issue a titanium pipe plug would work.
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