bobs409 (May 28, 2017), LMMasterMariner (May 31, 2017), olderdan (May 28, 2017), Paul Jones (May 28, 2017), piro222 (Feb 20, 2018), rlm98253 (May 27, 2017), Seedtick (May 27, 2017), volodar (May 29, 2017)
For $18 ...
Tap and Drill Stands - Penn Tool Co., Inc
it's almost not worth the time to build unless you have a lot of specialty taps.
Having the tap and clearance drill right there next to the tap has saved me immense amounts of time over the years.
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Regards, Marv
Failure is just success in progress
That looks about right - Mediocrates
volodar (May 29, 2017)
Marv,
I don't see that in the pic they show for the stand. is the tap right next to the "thread" drill? and then beside the thread drill, a clearance drill too? It looks in the picture as though the taps are on the outside, and the drills on the inside...... I do have a TON of taps and drills for them I use a lot that be GREAT to have a rack for the ones I use the most.....
I'm not certain about the one pictured in the URL; I only used that to demonstrate what I was talking about.
Mine, and all the others I've seen first hand, are arranged as follows, reading left to right...
NC tap
NC tap drill
NC/NF clearance drill
NF tap drill
NF tap
Mine accommodates taps in the range between #2 and 1/2". Taps smaller than #2 are so delicate that I made a small dedicated holder for them and their tap/clearance drills.
The tools in this holder are my working tools. I have a lot more taps (extras, unusual threads and metric) and dies. These are kept in individual pill vials (old guys take a lot of meds) in a large box. On the cap of each vial is written the major diameter and pitch as well as the tap drill size. For the writing I use a color code...
black - right hand inferial sizes
green - left hand inferial sizes
red - metric
for easy selection.
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Regards, Marv
Failure is just success in progress
That looks about right - Mediocrates
Hemi (May 29, 2017)
The standard 115 drill index can be made more usable by some judicious marking as discussed here...
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/h...old-eyes-27754
I've made lots of drilled wooden block stands for tools. I've noticed two problems...
To keep the size of the block down (my shop is small and crowded), holes should be spaced proportionately, not drilled along an equidistant grid. Working out the proportionate spacing can be tedious and time consuming.
Wood moves and a hole drilled with the drill meant to go in that hole can easily close up slightly and prevent the drill dropping in easily. I found this especially true with brad point spiral wood drills, the type with the prescorers at the edges of the tip. Of course, one can always drill larger holes but that is just another complication.
Nevertheless, the drilled block is cheap and easy and, done right, can be a satisfying project.
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Regards, Marv
Failure is just success in progress
That looks about right - Mediocrates
This is exactly what I was referring too! -I had to ask as the way you typed it out makes the most sense in how the holder would work on your bench or in a cabinet built for suck type holders.... (which one day will be my plan!)
-I'm not an old guy, really, BUT I'm on a TON of meds myself, and those pill vials in the standard sizes I get are saved for such tasks! I put all my "supply" in them, and only keep one of each item (drills and taps) out on the bench! Till it either A. wears out, or B. I break it..... LOL I plan to make a rotary rack to have each lid fastened to a board, on a octagon center, to spin with the same size bottles on every board around the octagon!
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