K.........I'll step in.
Two nuts can work with issues.......so
Scattered here at HMT.net are 'lantern chucks', and best over all solution.
Next, with less initial labor.......
Coupling nuts [the long type] are better, just back the hex or socket up against a solid stop to not back out when cutter takes hold.
Or coupler nut in jaws with washer and lock nut in front. Good thing about nuts of course with hex bolts [HHCS] are same size, secure clamping and alignment. I keep handy at least two of any sizes I come across.
Socket Head Cap Screws [SHCS] the nut and washer work.
Or slip them in through back side of collet, in a collet block, chucked in jaws.
Doing a lot? Pick collet larger than screw head, make a headed bushing with screw diameter, saw cut one side open, partially on the other. When it breaks or flub the cutting, the head continues to orient as it was made. Plus it's a handle to retrieve from chuck or collet.
Or in mill, block in vise, just like above. Set a stop, dial in and go to town.
Sincerely,
Toolmaker51
...we'll learn more by wandering than searching...
Wmrra13 (Jan 6, 2021)
Toolmaker51 (Jan 19, 2022)
I know what ya mean about “making your own”
But, McMaster-Carr has something that would fit the bill right out of the box.
https://www.mcmaster.com/fillister-head-machine-screws/length~3-8-2/thread-size~1-4-20/flanged-socket-head-screws/length~1-2-1/length
The plus is that the hex remains the same as regular 1/4-20s
Harvey Melvin Richards (Jan 19, 2022)
At $4 to $5 EACH, plus shipping, I like that idea of squandering an allen wrench, making a lantern chuck, or using two nuts, or any of the other good solutions.
Yep, I am a cheap skate, and proud of it.
PS. Actually, now that I think about it, I am pretty sure I could fit the short end of the wrench behind the jaws of my chuck. worst case would be to shorten it a little. Even better take one out of the folding set I carry in my portable tool box. I am positive the small looped would fit behind the chuck jaws.
After you use the socket to drive the screw to turn down and re-thread the screw, it will be concentric. As least within the tolerance of the fit of the wrench into the socket.
I often use old or new bolts as stock to turn into other things I need. Chucking a clean bolt in a collet, I have discovered that neither the hex head or the threads are concentric with the shank on most bolts. I doubt it would cause any issues in most situations.
Old hex socket wrenches never die; can be easily ground if kept cool.
Others with the ''L'' twisted become ''T'' extension wrench. Drill a hole of diameter equal to flats around 6 diameters deep into mild steel rod, press in shank, weld a T onto that rod.
I've also set them in place with JB Weld, the fit needs to be rather snug and/ or deeper.
Sincerely,
Toolmaker51
...we'll learn more by wandering than searching...
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