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Thread: Mill depth stop improvement

  1. #21
    Supporting Member mklotz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rasta View Post
    Hi Marv; I would like to point out another design for that I believe also will suit the purpose of that nut.
    It was marketed by Bridgeport , but can be adapted to any mill with a treaded depth stop.
    it used to be called "educated nut", and its very quick to set.. also it won't be hard to made as well.
    Yes, I'm well aware of that device but at upwards of $50 it's a bit expensive for the home shop. The clothespin style is much cheaper and the homemade version more self-satisfying.

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    Regards, Marv

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  2. #22
    Supporting Member marksbug's Avatar
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    I think I paid about $8 for mine and thats about 2x what it's worth....ebay probably has the best price. mine was probably enco or shars. as for the one he made...very nice indeed,for me O would add set screws in between the sets screws or possibly make a separate nut with deeper threads and collared to the main nut with a detent so it could be backed off for spinning down, then turned to lokc in position...but since I havent used my enco milldrill in many years...it seems to be fine just taking up space...my bridgeport does all the work nowdays...well mill work...no not wood..although I have done quite abit of wood on it too remolding my home..something about almost fits and using calk to fill the gaps just does not seem right... thanks for the post!! it keeps us thinking!!! with that said...I still havent made any quick nuts for any thing I had planed on....thanks for the post makes me remember what I didnt do yet...and cant remember what they were going to be for either....

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  3. #23
    Supporting Member marksbug's Avatar
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    as for educated nuts..... well, just look at where it got us. one of the mills...crap, well it was somewhere had one like a drill press, a straight collar with a twist nob to tighten the bolt to pinch the flat...sort of worked ok and was fast adjusting but you have to be eazy handed and not press too hard and slip it down. I suppose if it had a half moon puck the length of the slip color that the bolt/knob was pressing agnist it would hold better...possibly like a 3/8"/10mm wide keyway in the collar . oh so many ways to skin these feral cats in my head.

  4. #24
    Supporting Member marksbug's Avatar
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    hey jim, pull that plastic cover off and see, those mills look just like my old (1979) enco milldrill but they added a plastic cover to your model to"modernize them" Ive used a few diferent vresions of those mills, mine has a nice feature where it's eazy to make it like a drill press and just the pull handle works. some had a wonkey setup where the fine feed handle would have to be upshed up to find"nutral" pain in the butt and gears would often slip when your trying to feed down due to the wonkeyness of the setup, mine just has a nut to turn that lets the gear back off so just handle could be used like drill press. also have you tramed yours in??? every one Ive see were out a tad....mine was out 7 tads... probably why it was like new when I got it. in 2004. I have my dro on the stop nuts now,I bought the closepin thingy to use on it....it was a pos,Im not sure witch drawer it's in. I cant remember what if anything I was using for a stop on that mill after installing a dro to it.

  5. #25
    Supporting Member Okapi's Avatar
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    Very good idea to put five screws, it's a lot easier to use than the micro-metric stop somebody makes on my Cincinnati, same as yours but with only one screw, with another external part with a pitch of 0,5mm which turn on the stopper and gives a very fine adjustment you need only when making small 90° head Allen screw but not necessary on normal use and a lot more complicated to adjust finely.



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