McLeod

[forgiaro]

hello could you help me to build a hand tool called mcleod used by firefighters thanks

[DIYer]

Doesn't seem too difficult if you have access to a waterjet or plasma cutter.

[Altair]

I agree with DIYer. And remember to use the right plate thickness. Preferably tool steel.

[Christophe Mineau]

Hi friends,
Waooo, plasma or waterjet, that's not the common tool everyone has in his shop :-)

But, it's true that it's difficult to answer such a question without knowing what is in the shop and what's the skill of the builder ...
and it depends if it's just for making one or a full equipment for a company of firemen ...

My just two cent idea, assuming at the opposite that it could be a single tool, on the low tech side, I would just say that a reasonably thick steel plate can be cut with a jigsaw with HSS or bi-metal blades (probably several), and a lot of patience.
I would add some elbow grease, for the filing after that in order to clean up the cut.
Some oil to lubricate the cut can help also.

For attaching the handle, you will probably need to weld a piece a steel pipe.
Please give us your feedback !
Christophe

[DIYer]

That's true Christophe, only a few of us would have a waterjet or plasma cutter. But there are services for that, and the handle is easily fabricated. Your suggestion though, would work excellently.

[Hotz]

To ease the finish before cutting with a hand saw, drill holes (1/2) in the top with the correct divisions. you will have a better finish.

[forgiaro]

thanks for your cooperation if you have other tips I invite you to write

[Boating Bill]

I live in he Sierra where these are used by almost all of the fire crews. It's difficult to tell from your pictures but it looks like the straight (back) edge hasn't been honed. The Calfire crews file these down to a razor edge so the tool can be spun 180° and used to cut through roots and small brush.

hello could you help me to build a hand tool called mcleod used by firefighters thanks

[Toolmaker51]

hello could you help me to build a hand tool called mcleod used by firefighters thanks
]

All the cutting suggestions are practical, and I lean towards the solutions of Christophe and Hotz; drill tooth apexes and bandsaw the profile. Of the tool steels H-series might be a good choice, I'd be surprised commercial versions are anything but 10 gauge [.135/ 3.5mm] hot-rolled stampings with reinforcing ribs. Trimming the blanks first will produce parts quickly. I'd tack weld 4 to 6 blanks together, drill, then saw profile. The extra thickness will saw better than a single blank and fine teeth. Band saws like 3-4 teeth involved in the cut. I'd bet 4-6 drilled blanks would saw in 15 minutes or less. A 3/16"-1/4" [4.8-6.3mm] diameter rod intermittently welded to back side would substitute for ribs in stamped version, if desired.

There are 3 distinct features missing in the copy from that held by fireman. The teeth are more parallel and deeper, spigot holding allows replacement of handle and is wood. The teeth are important to penetrate ground cover [called breakdown] more effectively. The wood handle puts more balance [weight] to the blade, adds portability, and [since fire is involved] swapped out when charred via the spigot.
I do like the idea of sharpening the back side. I was in Sparks Nevada during their July and August brush fires. A huge variety of California fire agencies were on scene and that mod was typical.

[Frank S]

A lot depends on where and how the tool is needed for use.the Mcleod has been around since 1905 and is manufactured in a few variations in size. There are several brands on the market and can range in price from $40 to 80.00 made from the same type of tempered steels that shovels and hoes are made from usually either 12 or 10 ga in thickness from around 9 to 11 inches wide and from 7 to 8 inches tine tip to blade edge some of the brands are th eNupla, Zak, Corna, and Lamberton
Home Depo sells the Nupla brand, I think outdoor world may have a collapseable folding variation for carrying in a pack
the ZAK is preferred by many because of its tine configuration allows for stacking the spigot of one into the tine of another this allows for less space required to transport plus helps keep the storage area tidy.
If I were going to make one I might use 10ga AR 400 or ASTM 516 boiler plate or possibly ASTM 514 T1 any of these are restaurant to bending have good welding properties for attaching the spigot. and can be drilled or cut with a band saw though not easily. also they can be hardened
Since weight is a factor in the use and comfort of any tool 3/16" thick steel could be used for a more robust striking force when cutting through ground cover or roots but it make the tool much heavier to carry and wield kind of like the difference between using a large common garden hoe and grubbing hoe some call it an eye hoe
Additionally if I were making one I might forge the spigot out of 12 ga mild steel by rolling it to a taper, flangeing the narrow end then drilling and rivet it to the center of the blade instead of welding it then attach a common heavy duty hoe handle like one found in a 10" garden hoe. I might even use the thinner 12 ga material for the blade but forge a slight rearward "V" shape to the tines for added strength