Hi.
Below you have a link to instructional movie how to make precision machinists squares from scrap of metal.
Crusty (May 4, 2020), Hopefuldave (May 6, 2020), Jon (May 7, 2020), madmick77 (May 10, 2020), mwmkravchenko (May 11, 2020), nova_robotics (May 10, 2020), old_toolmaker (May 11, 2020), Tonyg (May 11, 2020)
mwmkravchenko (May 11, 2020)
Thanks kwm24@o2.pl! We've added your Machinist's Squares to our Angle Guides and Try Squares category,
as well as to your builder page: kwm24@o2.pl's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:
New plans added on 12/16/2024: Click here for 2,633 plans for homemade tools.
You take light cuts to avoid changing the wheel diameter, and maybe even retrue the wheel periodically. A wheel wears by fracturing of the surface particles and if you can mostly avoid that the wheel wears little since it's much harder than the steel it's grinding. A surface grinder can be a tool that works in the ten thousandths of an inch realm.
If you can't make it precise make it adjustable.
IAMSatisfied (May 5, 2020), mwmkravchenko (May 11, 2020), N00b Machinist (May 6, 2020)
In addition to the light cuts, you are really only cutting with the very first part of the wheel to contact the piece. As that part wears down, the cutting surface of the wheel moves over to "fresh" wheel. So now, the leading edge of the wheel is cutting the first 1/2 tenth and the "fresh" part of the wheel only has the cut the second 1/2 tenth.
In the video, from 9:05 to 9:20 you can see that the portion of the wheel closest to the machine is doing the cutting, and that there are no sparks forming on the surface closest to the viewer.
Last edited by Karl_H; May 5, 2020 at 08:44 AM. Reason: More info
IAMSatisfied (May 5, 2020), mwmkravchenko (May 11, 2020), N00b Machinist (May 6, 2020)
kwm24@o2.pl,
Nice looking work, although I prefer to see much thinner legs of precision squares. The thinner legs are able to show squareness better. The thicker legs tend to not show light gaps as easily and tend to not be as sensitive. Just my thoughts. Thank you for posting!
Dick
Links to some of my plans:
https://www.homemadetools.net/forum/...965#post105972 OFF-SET TAILSTOCK CENTER PLANS
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/s...995#post112113 SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/l...994#post112111 LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/m...383#post110340 MINI-LATHE CARRIAGE LOCK PLANS
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/s...191#post106483 SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/q...849#post119345 QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/m...949#post119893 MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION
Mook (Nov 1, 2023)
I made one out of 1/4 inch aluminum, but my surface "grind" was simply an edge cut with the mill.
I align my horizontal band saw blade by attaching a 6 inch steel gauge to the blade with a small rare earth magnet, being sure the magnet is not displaced by any of the teeth. When I tried to use my commercial machinist's square, the magnetic fields carried through the steel gauge would pull the gauge to the square, so no matter how far out of alignment the blade was, the gauge would line up perfectly with the square.
Since there is no "fine adjust" on my band saw - I twist the roller assembly with a big adjustable wrench and hold it in place while I tighten the screw - the precision of an end mill cut is good enough.
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