Leather apron

[rendoman]

Hi all
I'm building a leather apron for BDSM games.
... Not really!
I only need to preserve my clothes from sparks, forge and welding.
I Used a beef leather about 2mm thick, hand sewn with waxed twine.
I'm not so expericed with Needles, but I'm trying to do my best. Double shoulder support with central block at the belt. I'm thinking about make buckles with brass and hammer

I will add some pocket in the upper part for small object and maybe a support for protective glasses

[rendoman]

Hi!
I tried to do my best with anvil and hammer in order to make some buckles, but it's not easy! At least they work! I did some mistake with length and belts, that's my first time with a leather vest, without pattern it was a bit hard to take at first sight measures.

I think Tomorrow I will make some pocket and glasss support. I also have to take a quoted drawing

Saluti
Stefano

[Toolmaker51]

rendo!
Suggestion, yours is like a blacksmiths apron; the idea of a pocket is good.
On a machinists apron the pocket is 'hinged' so to speak. The pocket is double sided, back a little longer at top edge. That part is where the attachment is made. When you lean over it hangs perpendicular so your micrometer, scale, scribe, etc doesn't fall out.

[Griffin Leather]

Jon asked me to get involved in this discussion...so here it is.

Generally a black smiths apron is made of a chrome tanned leather that is 5 to 6 oz. Or Veg Tan leather that has been milled or in other words tumbled in a drum until its playable. The leather you are using is a little on the thin side but will work.

A well thought out black smith apron or welder apron will NOT have pockets. Reason is, If a hot piece of metal falls into the pocket you will probably have to take the apron off fast. It should also ride very high on the chest for maximum protection.

Quite a few people that work hot metal also use leather sleeves to protect the arms as well.

You may want to use a "box stitch" for any intersection where one piece of leather attaches to another. Its a box much like you have done but the stitch continues and makes an X inside the box.

Nice work. You are doing a great job.

Brian Griffin
GriffinLeather.com

[Toolmaker51]

In agreement with Griffin Leather that "Hot Pockets" belong in the microwave, not an apron.
Navy dungarees had the same logic; though pockets a necessity safety dictated flaps on the chambray shirt and patch pockets on the trousers. The external fabric could be torn off if hot material entered, and the trouser leg offered insulation of cotton layer next to skin, inside where patch was sewn to. Also a minimal amount of elastic was used in issue boxer shorts waistband, elastic briefs frowned on for the burn potential of elastic.
So add all the pockets you want. Attach them with snaps/ grippers/ buttons, for use when appropriate.
There is no intention to demean any post; I'm all about the options and utility.

[white bear]

So far so good - I don't see anything that should be done any different. My advice if any needed is not to attach any metal any place that would be in the general area of the forge. Brass will get very hot very fast and could be a potential cause for burns on your arms or ungloved hands.
An apron needn't be elaborate, its main function is to keep the forge heat away from your body (and under clothes clean). My apron is made from one deer hide. I pierced the sides to allow me to place leather straps for tying behind me, I have used this same apron for a few years now and it serves me still, I try to keep any oil from being spilled on it when I heat quench blades or smithed objects. Any oil in quantity will soak through and will transfer heat in those areas to whatever is beneath them.

Hi all
I'm building a leather apron for BDSM games.
... Not really!
I only need to preserve my clothes from sparks, forge and welding.
I Used a beef leather about 2mm thick, hand sewn with waxed twine.
I'm not so expericed with Needles, but I'm trying to do my best. Double shoulder support with central block at the belt. I'm thinking about make buckles with brass and hammer

I will add some pocket in the upper part for small object and maybe a support for protective glasses

[stillldoinit]

I agree with other posts about pockets, however a pocket could be handy and safe if a cover flap with snap were put in. As far as sewing, I think you are doing ok. I would think you are using leather or something that will not burn and come unsewn if hot embers hit it. Might look for leather workers type tools with large wooden handle to push needle point through. My apron came from Centaur Forge and does have a pocket high up close to the top and was reasonably cheap.
Doing nice work and adds authenticity because it is home made.

[rendoman]

Thank you very much for your advice!

I just finished my first apron, not a nice done job but at least usable.
I tried different lenght, I found that knee lenght is better for my use, very long apron is not so practical to use in kneeling position.
I follow your advice to avoid pockets in the front, think about it, the molten iron sparks hurt! maybe it's better to not put pockets

I will do the X style stitch, thanks for the advice!

I have not thought about the buckles as heat conductors, your solution with pierced sides + straps is simple but effective! good idea! I try everyday to complicate the simple

Brian, I'm watching your site, you're an artist of leather! plague mask is fantastic!

For the next apron (I used leather scraps I have at home) what kind of leather should I buy? I know really few things about leather, unfortunately for example, 5\-6 oz is something like hard leather? maybe some 3\4mm thick?

I post some picture of actual apron, I got garage in full disorder, please close one eye

I Drew badly a paper with some measure, i'm 1,85m x 90kg, maybe can be useful for someone who want to make one

Saluti
Stefano

[The Luth]

Hey rendoman, Great job on your 1st attempt! I probably couldn't do that good on my 10th! About the pockets, I would do like other say and leave them off as they could become a home for a hot spark and that's not good! Thanks for sharing and love the design! Take care!

[jotasierra]

Buen trabajo Rendoman, y lo mejor de todo que lo hiciste tu, es muy grato el trabajar cuero y creo que no será el último, adjunto un par de trabajitos en cuero, hasta pronto.