Lantern Chuck

[IAMSatisfied]

Marv
I would rather have s beautiful tool that is a lot more than a shear, as far as a shear, a pair of electrical wire pliers have a shear and cutters and strippers for a hole lot less.

Agreed, on both points, though my experience with the handheld stripper/shears has been less than stellar, in that I still need to dress up the first thread a bit. I only offered the suggestion of a close tolerance shear for those who might have the need to simply shorten fasteners regularly & quickly... and knowing that it could be built and hardened by many here (for a lot less than $100).

[Shelly142]

Christophe,

Your proposal sounds great and it would appear that you work in both metal and wood-working disciplines. Based on what I believe you are proposing it would only require machine/fabricating an arbor with the proper wood screw thread profile to hold the wooden stock.

The Lantern Chuck is probably most useful in the model and clock making environment where the fasteners can be exposed and impact the general appearance of the project.

This device for general hobby use provides the ability to modify fastener length as well as the point, flat, dog, cup, cone, etc. Much nicer finish that the crude method I’m sure we have all employed in the past with the added benefit of getting exactly what you need for your project.

[Jon]

Congratulations Shelly142 - your Lantern Chuck is the Homemade Tool of the Week!

This is not the first homemade lantern chuck we've seen, but it's definitely the first one to win this award. Nice job.

Yet another big week around here. Some nice picks:

123/2 Blocks by mklotz
Lathe Mandrel Clamp by olderdan
QCTP Dremel Holder by mrehmus2
Milling Machine Stand by ruxu
V-Block and Clamps by Captainleeward
Motorcycle Wheel Bearing Remover by Cascao
Pecan Cracker by oldtimer
Camera Welding Lens Filter by Tuomas
Meat Grinder Blade Sharpener by darkoford
Mini Table Saw by nad1
Stick Welder Caddy by Tuomas
CNC Router by machiningfool


Shelly142 - we've added your tool entry to our All Homemade Tool of the Week winners post. And, you'll now notice the wrench-on-pedestal award in the awards showcase in your postbit, visible beneath your username:



You'll be receiving a $25 online gift card, in your choice of Amazon, PayPal, or bitcoin. Please PM me your current email address and gift card choice and I'll get it sent over right away.


Congratulations and well done!

[nextofkin]

What holds the 1/4 socket in the main body is it a set screw or you could silver solder it in. The tool looks top notch you can always have the length you need.

[Shelly142]

I have attached a PDF that should give you a better perspective on how this tool was laid-out. If I can be of additional help, please don't hesitate to ask.

[Shelly142]

nextofkin,
Sorry about the poor quality of the attachment. Exported as PDF but the forum doesn't accept PDF for upload. Scanned PDF to jpeg and then attached it to my post. Didn't come out very good.

[nextofkin]

Thanks for the print, I plan to make one (don't know when) but I will change it some and just use a 1/4" socket, Thanks Again.

[Karl_H]

2 + years later:

Thanks for the print, I plan to make one (don't know when) but I will change it some and just use a 1/4" socket, Thanks Again.

A 1/4 inch socket press fit into the main shank sounds like a good idea. Would there be (were there?) any issues with the chrome on the socket affecting the fit?

[Shelly142]

Hello Karl,
So far I have had no problems with the chrome on affecting the fit of the socket. Didn't experience any flaking or peeling during or after installation. I used a 3 ton arbor press for installation. It should be a tight fit. If I can be of any further help, just ask.
Shelly142

[neilg4dbn]

Thanks very much for the inspiration, I needed a tool to machine some domed and polished ends on 5 to 8 mm stainless capscrews and the solution with the hex holder was perfect. I used a black-finished hex socket and milled a groove in the side, locking it with a dog-point setscrew against rotation and another setscrew and lockscrew in the rear of the shank so the position of the socket can be adjusted and locked. The lockscrew is a standard setscrew with the end turned into a cylinder so it fits into the hex socket of the main setscrew.

I posted a video of the build on my YT channel MachiningandMicrowaves:

Neil