Thanks Gary, good idea. Post up a pic (in a new thread) and get your own builder page going..
Mark
I had a really good cutting band-saw blade break on me a couple weeks ago. I had paid $45 for it, and being very Scot by nature, I wanted to get it back together again. I had tried to tig weld it and that didn't work out. I unfortunately burned up about 3/4" of blade trying to tig it so the blade is too short to mount in the Jet Horizontal/Vertical band saw. After finding a great explanation on Tom's Technique on "Silver Soldering Your Band Saw Blade" I built the jig to belt sand a scarf joint on the blade ends, and then hold the blade ends in position to solder them. I had never silver soldered before but it works out great. I cut it apart in a couple of new places for the exercise of getting some more experience soldering it back together. So I am ready should I break another blade.
GaryR
ps. I got the paste flux and 45% silver solder at a local welding supply house.
Hi Al,
I built one very similar to the one Tom uses on his real good site "Tom's Techniques"
He has a good video using its use.
I couldn't find the toggle clamps, so I just mounted a couple 1x1/2 inch straps and bolted them to the jig to hold the band saw down. It works quite well.
Hope that helps out.
GaryR
Harbor Freight or Enco will have the clamp sets. I am building a brake line tubing straightener at the moment and had to do some wierd cutting on an old milling fixture I repurposed. Took the stationary jaw off and used one of those clamps to square up the fixture so I could cut the top 2 1/2" off.
Mark
This thread has been moved to the Must Read subforum. Congrats (and thanks) to astroracer for making such a valuable contribution!
It may be 'old news' to many of you but I came across a problem I hadn't seen before in ? years of using bandsaw.
Could not get a straight cut, blade veering off about 1/4" on a 2" dia bar from top to bottom
I told a friend who immediately told me to check side of blade
Turns out, I had been using saw vertical to rough out some circles in 5/8" thick stainless steel and it had flattened one side of teeth (haven't investigated fully, they could be worn away?)
Anyway, it was new to me so I thought I would post about it
I have had to cut some pieces that were just too small and odd shaped to allow the standard clamp on my band saw to hold them. I drilled and tapped a couple of 3/8" holes a long time ago and made a strap to fit between them. That and a 3/8" clamp set has allowed me to solve a lot of cutting problems.
Another thing that I did was to drill and tap a hole in the outer end of the standard clamp on the saw. I have a 6" long piece of threaded rod in it with a nut "knob" on it. That saves having to find a suitable scrap block when I am using it to hold a short piece of stock. I just adjust the threaded rod for the same or slightly greater distance than the thickness of my stock and I can clamp the short piece easily and firmly.
Paul A.
Yeah welding band saw blades is sketchy. I've had good luck just brazing them though. I read about it on the net. I cut both ends at a shallow 30 degree angle then feather each end on a grinder to get the maximum surface area contact between both ends. Then I clamp them up in this jig and braze them.http://i.imgur.com/7SrdP.jpg
When the blade breaks again it usually doesn't break where I brazed it, but rather somewhere else. As blades age after a lot of flexing they get fatigued and they tend to start breaking all over the place then. Plain old every day brazing rod has a tensile strength of 60,000 PSI per square inch? Something like that. It is pretty strong stuff.
Paul Jones (Apr 1, 2018)
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