Homebuilt 9mm Handgun Suppressor

[alainbiggun]

Dans le cas de petit calibre avec peu de volume de gaz, ça peut effectivement fonctionner.

mais avec des calibres plus gros,bien plus de volume de gaz brulants,tout revêtement souple serait détruit

[alainbiggun]

Happy man!!!

en France,je peux fabriquer un surpressor,recharger mes munitions,mais pas fabriquer une arme!!

je peux fabriquer pour la poudre noire ,mais à condition que ça soit quasiment la copie d'une arme ancienne ayant existé.

vos pieces sont très bien réalisées: bravo!!

[Dry Creek Smithing]

Jughead, Nice work. I have experimented with the above devices too and I find yours superior to mine. Thank you for you photos and video's as well. Good job! Great reduction in db's too! Well done!

[astroscuba]

He stated this in his description.
"The reason it is indexed is that normally the point of impact changes when a suppressor is fitted to the barrel. The indexing allows the point of impact to be adjusted to bring it closest to where it is supposed to be."
You mount the supessor then take a shot and you make a change in the indexing to put the round closer to where you aimed.

[NeiljohnUK]

There for a while I was buying non operation guns for a song and singing the song off key so to speak. Seriously I must have bought a dozen or more wall hangers their value in scrap metal at the time would have been more than I paid for them. This one .22 single shot that I bought someone had threaded the end of the barrel with a coarse thread die and from the looks of it a hand held die stock ruining the end of the barrel. I repaired what the guy at the pawn shop had purposely damaged so the rifle couldn't fire. He had done some minor damage to the rifle rendering it incapable of firing to be able to sell it and get it out of inventory because of the threading on the end of the barrel would make the weapon unsafe to fire should someone take it upon their selves to make a homemade silencer for it. I looked it over then measured the barrel then told the guy you know if you were careful you could cut this thread off and the barrel would still be legal length but just barely. He said yes but his boss wouldn't allow it because of this or that. So I bought it repaired the damage to the bolt and trigger but just left the thread on the end no need to cut it off if I were to do anything I would fashion a faux flash suppressor just for looks and to hide the ugly thread.

Ugly threads, even when done by a competent smith, are the bane of many long-guns, I have a knurled cover on one my father had done, it also meant no fore-sight remained so scopes only now, which with the factory rail are a royal PITA. I was looking at moderators (we don't call them suppressors or silencers as it frightens people) for a Mod.70, everyone needed threading of the barrel thus ugly and reproofing needed too. One day I may investigate a collet clamping system in a long sleeve back over the barrel for the collet clamping, with a precision guide ring over the muzzle, but I've more important jobs to do for now so it's a sometime never round-tuit for now.

[Frank S]

Ugly threads, even when done by a competent smith, are the bane of many long-guns, I have a knurled cover on one my father had done, it also meant no fore-sight remained so scopes only now, which with the factory rail are a royal PITA. I was looking at moderators (we don't call them suppressors or silencers as it frightens people) for a Mod.70, everyone needed threading of the barrel thus ugly and reproofing needed too. One day I may investigate a collet clamping system in a long sleeve back over the barrel for the collet clamping, with a precision guide ring over the muzzle, but I've more important jobs to do for now so it's a sometime never round-tuit for now.

For the past year now, I have been putting together a selection of 20TPI 28TPI 32, 36 and 40 TPI taps and dies for my work in hydraulics, I have done a few barrels for a couple of friends who do competition shooting, even though I prefer to single point thread a barrel I like to make the final few thousandths with a die. Many barrels are too thin at the end to accept a very coarse thread not that I would ever recommend a coarse thread on a barrel for any reason. To me coarse on the end of a gun barrel means any thread of 20TPI of fewer, 28 TPI seems to be an accepted thread pitch by a few smiths I have talked to but if someone desires to have a modified or full choke added to their 12,16,20, 28, or .410 ga shot gun most of those barrels are way too thin for 28 TPI but 32 or even 40 TPI in some cases will leave 75% of the barrel thickness. The threads must be proportionately longer but the trueness to the center bore is amazingly easier to maintain.

[NeiljohnUK]

For the past year now, I have been putting together a selection of 20TPI 28TPI 32, 36 and 40 TPI taps and dies for my work in hydraulics, I have done a few barrels for a couple of friends who do competition shooting, even though I prefer to single point thread a barrel I like to make the final few thousandths with a die. Many barrels are too thin at the end to accept a very coarse thread not that I would ever recommend a coarse thread on a barrel for any reason. To me coarse on the end of a gun barrel means any thread of 20TPI of fewer, 28 TPI seems to be an accepted thread pitch by a few smiths I have talked to but if someone desires to have a modified or full choke added to their 12,16,20, 28, or .410 ga shot gun most of those barrels are way too thin for 28 TPI but 32 or even 40 TPI in some cases will leave 75% of the barrel thickness. The threads must be proportionately longer but the trueness to the center bore is amazingly easier to maintain.

I always wonder why with rifle barrels they don't recess the crown, with my PH bull barrelled target rifle it was the best way to protect the crown, would that help the situation with threading I wonder?

[Frank S]

I always wonder why with rifle barrels they don't recess the crown, with my PH bull barrelled target rifle it was the best way to protect the crown, would that help the situation with threading I wonder?

Since I am not a gunsmith never claimed to be one and have not played one on TV, I cannot give a qualified answer to that question. I can state from my own experiences that even a small nick on the rifling will affect the predictability of a bullet's trajectory. When I bought My .270 the end of the barrel liked like someone had driven a tapered pike in it the riflings were flattened about .050", I made a brass guiding tip for an internal chamfering cutter then carefully cut a chamfer in the end of the barrel afterwards with the aid of a 4-inch magnifying glass I used a very fine jeweler's file to remove any burs on the rifling. Now it will strike kitchen matches at 300 yards. So, there may be a plausibility to your question since the crown might be damaged during the machining process if the smith was not attenuative if he used a centering arbor for a threading die holder.

[dbat74]

After a recent disappointing purchase from Mkonto, I decided to give up on looking for what I wanted locally (prices for what I want from over the pond are just ridiculous), started some research, did some planning (mostly in my head), did a bit more research on materials, made a few phone calls and went shopping.

Its been a bit of a lengthy process to get to this point (been at it since November 2018) but I am progressing.

So the materials I have sourced are EN36 for the critical hard wearing part, and for the weight saving components, 6063 T6 Aluminium tube, and 6068 T6 Aluminium Round bar.

There are multiple threads (the screw kind) in this project, so went down to the local plastics supplier and rummaged through their scrap bin for suitable off-cuts to practice on. Having successfully mastered that, I began on the actual project. I unfortunately didn't take photos right from the beginning, but I have some to post here.

First part was to set the lathe up to be able to turn a 1.25mm Pitch thread. You basically just follow the thread/gear chart on the lathe and as long as you get it all right, you will have a 1.25mm pitch thread. Many lathes have a series of levers on the front to select the various gears to get the right spindle to leadscrew ratio. Unfortunately in my case, I have to do this manually and physically remove and change the gears in the gearbox every time I want to change the pitch. Gears were rearranged and the test was done on some of the offcut plastic.

Now to the body of the main unit, known as a Nielsen Device, sometimes referred to as a LID (Linear Inertia Decoupler) or a Booster, and here plenty of planning was involved. Its function is basically to decouple the barrel and suppressor while the action cycles to load the next round. The reason it is indexed is that normally the point of impact changes when a suppressor is fitted to the barrel. The indexing allows the point of impact to be adjusted to bring it closest to where it is supposed to be.

The entire project, 11 parts in all, need to be perfectly aligned once assembled. It was therefor imperative that once a piece of material is mounted and the cutting has begun, it not be disturbed in the chuck until it is complete.

The main body of the unit required 10 different tasks before it could be removed from the chuck. These were, in order of task:

1. Cutting the outer diameter
2. The straight knurl. This is done right at the beginning as it requires tremendous force on the part, and if it were going to move in the chuck, I wanted it to happen before any other critical parts were cut.
3. Cutting the rear diameter.
4. Cutting the taper to go from the rear diameter to the knurl.
5. Cutting the inner bore to size and depth.
6. Cutting the thread relief in the bore.
7. Cutting the internal thread.
8. Cutting the external thread major diameter
9. Cutting the thread relief for the external thread.
10. Cutting the forward relief
11. Cutting the external thread.

The part could then only be parted off and reversed to face off the other side. This is what the part looks like with the processes numbered.





The next part of the project was the body core, which slides inside the part above, but must be able to rotate, but must also be fixed, but must also be index-able!!!

This is what I came up with. It also has an internal thread. The outer surface is smooth and polished to ensure smooth action when doing what it is supposed to be doing. This part was actually turned out of a 30mm piece of EN36, without changing the outer diameter. It was then parted off and 8 holes drilled in a circle around the central hole. Once those were drilled, the part then went back into the lathe to have the larger diameter cut to fit snugly inside the bore of the body.





At this point I had to run off to the engineering shop as I had forgotten to drill the required offset hole in the material before I started. My good mate Johan popped in the milling machine and sorted it for me.



The hole would hold a pin, which would then locate into one of the holes drilled around the core. When pushed forward, this pin would lock the core, preventing it from turning. Once pulled back however, the core can turn and the pin would then locate in a different hole in the core.



Next up was the end cap for the main body of this piece.

When this photo was taken the part had just been through the blast cabinet in preparation for blackening



With the final result looking like this.







Then it was off to dig around in my favourite spring manufacturers over-run bins for a suitable spring to fit the core.

I found the perfect one. A little rusty when I got it but a quick run through the electroplating bath and it looks like new again.



The various parts lined up as they would be assembled.



Partly assembled





And the finished product.



Here it is fitted to the barrel without the suppressor attached.



With a suitable bolt turned into the core, this is how the unit will function.

Nielsen Device done! Now for the suppressor part.

First job was to put an Aluminium cap on the end of an Aluminium tube. So the tube was threaded internally first. The tube wall is 3mm thick, but much of that was removed as I needed the maximum capacity I could get on the inside of the tube.



Next was to make the cap to fit the tube. I didn't get the entire process, but here the cap is virtually complete.



And here the tube has been test fitted onto the cap whilst still in the chuck.



The inside of the cap was also bored out to save a little weight.



The semi completed cap.







And the completed cap just before anodizing



Then on to the innards. These just consist of a few fat washers curved on the one side and a few thin wall tube spacers.





That are assembled in this order.



The view inside the tube once everything is assembled.



Another view showing the baffles



And this is how they line up.



A view down the barrel



Completed and fitted.



Then it was off to the range.

Test firing. First, without the suppressor. Camera is about 2 meters away while firing.

Next the disappointing purchase from Mkonto. That thing is HUGE! Camera in the same position.

Then my handywork. Here the camera is up close. I must admit, I am rather happy with that!

Great job and what we want to see on here. One question though, what is the purpose in having that part rotate? I have never seen one like this and I am very interested. Obviously, u got the ok for this. Shhhhh.

[dbat74]

Fine threads offer a better fit and hold better. In my experiance.