The tool shown produced a rather rough groove. Now I have never worked on an engine part like this but I would imagine that a carefully sized dremel like cutter could produce a more consistent groove depth with smoother edges.
I made a tool on the lines you are suggesting here
Gasket alternative grooving tool
But what the hell Franks method works also.
I saw a groove like that on turbine generator set. The grove was cut by hand, and it had some grease nipples tapped into it at intervals. An RTV type material was pumped into the assembly( this was before silicone was big time) and there you had an o-ring type seal, simply elegant that it worked so well.
Not being high-tech in comparison, this method worked a treat for my washing machine tub DIY seal:
Yet another Honey-Do: Growling washing machine, Pt 1
It's been operative and used every other day for over two months w/o any sign of leaking!
My (unproven) personal hypothesis for the groove is the rougher its inner surface, the better the bite gets for the sealant.
Thanks for all you guys pitching in, particularly Frank S & ToolMaker51 for leading me to this nice solution!
Cheers
Johan
4 years and over half million miles later and it still doesn't leak. The truck now has over 1.4 million miles on it and the equivalent of 2.1 million on the engine due to having ran a truck mounted Vacuum/ pressure pump when the truck pulled a bulk tanker for years before Bob bought the truck. Still has 45 PSI oil pressure running 30 PSI idling, down to 415 HP from the 425 new uses 1 gallon oil in 7000 miles, the 3 oil filters and centrifuge filter changed every 25,000 miles, oil changed each 50,000.
Oil sampling still within tolerable levels but starting to see them gradually getting closer to unacceptable. Bob is thinking it is about time for me to reman the engine, both diffs. and replace the clutch for him.
Never try to tell me it can't be done
When I have to paint I use KBS products
I can see your point Frank for a groove to hold sealant. I have worked on & operated many different types of trucks in my career in the oilfield transportation business & I have NEVER seen a Flywheel housing that had to seal oil! The crankshaft oil seal is in the engine block not on the flywheel housing. There is also a starter bolted onto the flywheel housing which may be called a clutch housing also. In the bottom of that housing is an inspection plate through which you grease the throwout bearing & adjust the clutch "free play", also running through the flywheel housing is the clutch shaft with only bushings in the housing that need to be greased & are not sealed. I fail to see your reasoning to seal the mating surface of the flywheel housing to the engine block. IF you ever did happen to seal it all up & did develope an engine oil leak that would fill the housing and make your clutch, now running in oil, totally useless! You wouldn't get too many starts from that starter running in oil either as it is not a sealed unit.
Sorry Frank but I just cannot comprehend sealing a flywheel housing. Please contact me to show me how I am wrong in my thinking.
Last edited by Wildwilly; Nov 10, 2022 at 09:36 AM.
On the Mack E7 engine the crankshaft seal is in the flywheel housing the rear of the oil pan mates to a flat area just below the crankshaft seal . the crank seal is in many Cat engines, Detroit 71 series the 92 series and the series 60s all have the seal in the flywheel housing many Cummins are also done this way, About the only9 engines I remember off hand that had the seal in the block were the 855 series IE NT big cam 1,2,3,&4. Some Cat did not have the seal in the housing, And some Internationals I've worked on also had a dry housing between the block and housing
Some manufactures were even arrogant enough to use the flywheel housing to block off water ports in the rear of the block with O rings in addition to having the crankshaft seal in the housing
Last edited by Frank S; Nov 10, 2022 at 12:41 PM.
Never try to tell me it can't be done
When I have to paint I use KBS products
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