Flame Licker/Eater Engine-Tear Down & Why I'd NOT Buy It Again Part 2 (4K)

**tsbrownie** · Apr 3, 2023, 03:15 AM

Let's examine then tear down this engine, also called a: flame eater, flame licker, flame sucker, atmospheric engine, vacuum engine, flame dancer, etc. I'll explain why I'd not buy this particular engine again.

I did not mention in the video, but I tried fueling it with both isopropyl and ethanol alcohols to see if a cooler flame would make a difference. It made no noticeable change in run times. Also I found that "fanning" or spreading out the top of the "wick" into a funnel shape helped keep it from getting blown/sucked out.

WARNINGS: Burns possible. This engine gets very hot. It uses flammable liquid fuels in a burner that can easily leak spreading fire to persons and things. It leaked fuel and set my hand on fire while making this video! This should not be used by children unless closely supervised by responsible adults.

Graphics credits:
Flame licker gif: Benutzer:Karl Bednarik GNU 1.2 (Wikipedia)
Flammenfressermotor Michael Frey GNU1-2 (Wikipedia)

Flame Temp Isopropyl: 1890C
Flame Temp Ethanol: 1980C

**mklotz** · Apr 3, 2023, 09:51 AM

I've built several flamenfressers and, in each case, used aluminum with integral cooling fins for the cylinders and stainless steel for the pistons. I've never seen a water jacket on a flame eater although I did build a Ringbom engine that uses one.

They're tricky to get running. If the cylinder is cool (as when first trying to get running), the hot gas will lose its heat too quickly after it's "ingested" and there won't be sufficient vacuum when the valve closes completely. I get around this by using the alcohol lamp to preheat the cylinder before trying to start the engine.

Flame position is critical. Ideally you want the hot gas near the top of the flame to enter the cylinder.

Keep trying; these engines are finicky but great fun when you finally get them to work.

**tsbrownie** · Apr 3, 2023, 07:21 PM

Originally Posted by mklotz

I've built several flamenfressers and, in each case, used aluminum with integral cooling fins for the cylinders and stainless steel for the pistons. I've never seen a water jacket on a flame eater although I did build a Ringbom engine that uses one.

They're tricky to get running. If the cylinder is cool (as when first trying to get running), the hot gas will lose its heat too quickly after it's "ingested" and there won't be sufficient vacuum when the valve closes completely. I get around this by using the alcohol lamp to preheat the cylinder before trying to start the engine.

Flame position is critical. Ideally you want the hot gas near the top of the flame to enter the cylinder.

Keep trying; these engines are finicky but great fun when you finally get them to work.

You do really nice work! I wish I had your skills. I bought this one, and you can find several
videos on the internet where people have reached the same conclusion, there's just not enough
radiator area to dissipate the heat. It runs great until the cylinder gets hot (really hot) and then
it slowly grinds to a halt. I also tried cooling it in the freezer, but like you said, it won't run if it's too
cold because the plasma cools before the piston is in the right position. Seems that valve timing
depends on the heat dissipation of the engine. A bigger diameter or longer piston would have different
characteristics. Interesting engine with very different challenges from a ICE or steam engine.

**Toolmaker51** · Apr 17, 2023, 06:59 PM

It's clear why so many are captivated by steam, hit and miss and other early engines, not exactly internal combustion.
Electric motors haven't nearly the attraction.
Without both, the Industrial Revolution would have fizzled.

**mklotz** · Apr 18, 2023, 09:48 AM

Hit and miss engines were mostly IC (where the 'I" could stand for intermittent as well as internal) but that's not to say one can't build a model H&M that runs on compressed air. Here's mine...