Free 186 More Best Homemade Tools eBook:  
Get tool plans

User Tag List

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 16

Thread: Faboulous binding post

  1. #1
    Supporting Member rendoman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Italy
    Posts
    435
    Thanks
    451
    Thanked 496 Times in 241 Posts

    rendoman's Tools

    Faboulous binding post

    Hi all!
    I'm not sure that's the right sub forum for this object

    I'm building some extreme binding post for speaker, usable even as replace for welding machines or Others high current applications.
    I used 1" - 25mm brass rod, m10 threaded cap, 10mm hole for a 3\0 avg cable, overrated for an home speaker.

    I used my last experience with binding post, then:

    - decided to knurl the knob, m10 thread can be hard when cable inserted, now it's nice to use fingers instead of a tool.

    -large insert hole, 10mm instead of 6mm, useful with particular high end cables

    -teflon thick insulators, on 15mm aluminum frame, maybe the best insulator, with a sturdy frame.

    I'm building them as a gift for a friend that is building some very good speakers, I think I will make some couples more for me, I need to rebuild 2 amp frame and question is : why use commercial poor type binding post when I can use some huge custom made one?

    I will not tell you that they sound better than other (high priced) binding post, they're just connectors made of good material, contrarily to many magnetic copper and brass found!
    It's my taste that a great detail like this can give the right accent

    Ps: next thing to do is the body of connector

    Saluti
    Stefano

    Faboulous binding post-dsc01099_1600x1200.jpg

    186 More Best Homemade Tools eBook
    Last edited by rendoman; Aug 26, 2016 at 07:00 PM. Reason: lost a part

  2. The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to rendoman For This Useful Post:

    C-Bag (Aug 27, 2016), Paul Jones (Aug 26, 2016), sdiverjack (Aug 27, 2016)

  3. #2
    Supporting Member Paul Jones's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Del Mar, California
    Posts
    1,231
    Thanks
    5,810
    Thanked 1,459 Times in 657 Posts

    Paul Jones's Tools
    Excellent knurling work on the 25mm diameter brass rod and very clean threads.

    2,000+ Tool Plans

  4. The Following User Says Thank You to Paul Jones For This Useful Post:

    rendoman (Aug 27, 2016)

  5. #3

    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    3
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
    Hi,
    Looks good -keep me posted -- norm


    Quote Originally Posted by rendoman View Post
    Hi all!
    I'm not sure that's the right sub forum for this object

    I'm building some extreme binding post for speaker, usable even as replace for welding machines or Others high current applications.
    I used 1" - 25mm brass rod, m10 threaded cap, 10mm hole for a 3\0 avg cable, overrated for an home speaker.

    I used my last experience with binding post, then:

    - decided to knurl the knob, m10 thread can be hard when cable inserted, now it's nice to use fingers instead of a tool.

    -large insert hole, 10mm instead of 6mm, useful with particular high end cables

    -teflon thick insulators, on 15mm aluminum frame, maybe the best insulator, with a sturdy frame.

    I'm building them as a gift for a friend that is building some very good speakers, I think I will make some couples more for me, I need to rebuild 2 amp frame and question is : why use commercial poor type binding post when I can use some huge custom made one?

    I will not tell you that they sound better than other (high priced) binding post, they're just connectors made of good material, contrarily to many magnetic copper and brass found!
    It's my taste that a great detail like this can give the right accent

    Ps: next thing to do is the body of connector

    Saluti
    Stefano

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSC01099_1600x1200.JPG 
Views:	249 
Size:	249.4 KB 
ID:	13423

  6. The Following User Says Thank You to Norm M For This Useful Post:

    rendoman (Aug 27, 2016)

  7. #4
    sdiverjack's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Posts
    7
    Thanks
    12
    Thanked 10 Times in 5 Posts

    sdiverjack's Tools
    I wouldn't know of any reason to not use the ones you made. I have made all manner of items like this instead of paying high dollar for something. Looks good!
    I'm a superhero with no powers or motivation

  8. The Following User Says Thank You to sdiverjack For This Useful Post:

    rendoman (Aug 27, 2016)

  9. #5
    Supporting Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Kansas
    Posts
    75
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 47 Times in 29 Posts
    Hi rendoman-
    Those are some good looking parts. Looking forward to the rest.

  10. The Following User Says Thank You to Toolguy For This Useful Post:

    rendoman (Aug 27, 2016)

  11. #6
    Supporting Member sohackitj's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    San Diego
    Posts
    5
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 20 Times in 4 Posts

    sohackitj's Tools
    Very nice posts. I'm sure they will work better and last longer than the expensive commercial ones. Good Job!

  12. The Following User Says Thank You to sohackitj For This Useful Post:

    rendoman (Aug 28, 2016)

  13. #7
    Profkanz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    7
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 4 Times in 3 Posts
    Nice work. I would suggest 45 degree chamfers at both ends of the knurled knob and at the starting end of the thread. Chamfer at the start of the thread will make entry into the female thread easier and less likely to stick. Chamfers at both ends of the knurled knob will provide a grip that is more comfortable to grasp and not as likely to cut the fingers.

    As for the question as to why use cheap commercial posts, commercial posts are electroplated with metals that resist corrosion/oxidation (sometimes with gold). Oxidation and corrosion sometimes occur when dissimilar metals are in contact through electrolysis. These processes can reduce the electrical conductivity of connectors, thus reducing loss of signal(and sound quality in speakers. Whether this loss is significant enough to cause problems is not known to me.
    Last edited by Profkanz; Aug 27, 2016 at 08:29 PM. Reason: typo

  14. The Following User Says Thank You to Profkanz For This Useful Post:

    rendoman (Aug 28, 2016)

  15. #8

    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    14
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
    Make 2 triangles 6mm thick and tap them to match Binding post threads machined from the left over brass rod. Locate a piece of 4mm thick nylon sheet or piece of cutting board. NOT one from the kitchen! A 100mm or so long steel bolt threaded flush into the triangle(or creative shape) piece. Heat and melt into the nylon sheet with out coming through. Sink into the nylon enough to keep from twisting. Remove bolt and with a drill bit smaller than the tapped threads drill on through the nylon sheet. Flip nylon plate over and enlarge this smaller hole just enough to run the binding post into the threads. This is now an iso-mount. Solder wire to the back of iso mount or a copper connector to attach wires to circuit board from stereo,amp or welding machine.

  16. The Following User Says Thank You to cuyler1 For This Useful Post:

    rendoman (Aug 28, 2016)

  17. #9

    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    3
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
    Looking good !

    Look into ohms law, for keeping power and any heating down due to resistance, I am sure there are a bunch of commercial posts out there, but if doing custom,, add some jazz to it so at an eye glance custom built one or so of a kind is very evident.

    Think functional eye candy and you can not go wrong..

    Think bling..

  18. The Following User Says Thank You to Dogman For This Useful Post:

    rendoman (Aug 28, 2016)

  19. #10
    Blogwitch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Crewe, Cheshire, UK.
    Posts
    11
    Thanks
    2
    Thanked 10 Times in 4 Posts

    Blogwitch's Tools
    I am in no way criticising your work, but for future reference here is how knurls are normally used.

    For tightening and unscrewing jobs, such as yours, straight knurls are recommended as they are easier on the fingers and you can obtain a better grip for rotating.

    For gripping surfaces on say punches, tommy bars and scribers, then the diamond pattern knurl is used, they give a nice non slip surface to hold onto.

    I hope this helps a little

    John

  20. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Blogwitch For This Useful Post:

    rendoman (Aug 28, 2016), Toolmaker51 (Aug 29, 2016)

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •