Tip angle 60°, flat 4° rake, clearance angle 12°
Page link: https://knoba.wordpress.com/2015/04/...s-for-plastic/
Thanks Ken!
Tip angle 60°, flat 4° rake, clearance angle 12°
Page link: https://knoba.wordpress.com/2015/04/...s-for-plastic/
Thanks Ken!
kbalch (Apr 10, 2015), Paul Jones (Apr 12, 2015)
Thanks knoba! I've added your Drill Bits for Plastics to our Miscellaneous category, as well as to your builder page: knoba's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:
knoba (Apr 11, 2015)
Yes, those bits are used to avoid ("prevent" is probably overstating their efficacy) chipping and cracking. I used special plexiglass bits with similar profiles to drill the canopy on my airplane.
Ken
DIYer (Apr 13, 2015)
As Ken said.
You can use metal bits but it's wise to take some special precautions;
Use an undrilled area of a sacrificial backing piece (wood) for each hole.
Avoid using pilot holes if process permits.
Clamp the plastic down.
Use slower rpm speeds.
Slow feed pressure down on break-through.
hth
DIYer (Apr 15, 2015)
Hi Paul,
You do some very nice work, btw!
No I haven't reground a set for brass. Do you mean; once the bit grabs into brass it starts pulling itself through without much coercion from the operator?
I would have thought the best geometry for brass drill bits would be to back-off the "lip relief" shown in the following diagram as "x";
hth.
Hi Knoba,
Thanks for the compliment. I have similar trait to Ken's toolmaker mentor concerning "finishing the areas that no one else will ever see".
For years I have been temped to reduce the lip relief for some larger nominal sized import drills I use for drilling brass with the tailstock in the lathe. A few times I had 3/4" drills pull the tailstock chuck out while drilling out brass or bronze round stock prior to boring. No serious accidents but something to avoid. I found rolling a small section of printer paper in between the chuck and tailstock Morse tapers seem to make it hold better but doesn't fix the root cause.
Thanks, Paul
knoba (Apr 14, 2015)
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