Cylinder boring without a cylinder borer.

[stillldoinit]

I always like seeing your solutions, getting around obstacles. Very nice work.

[crazypj]

If jet ski is a two-stroke you'll need some special guided honing stones to bridge ports. Last time I had to buy some for Sunnen hone they were about $60.00 pair (around 2005) Of course, you need the holder and drive mech but there are a few aftermarket companies making Sunnen copies nowadays which are very affordable. Don't get AMMCO, they are expensive for various parts and not easily available (guess what I've got ) AMMCO does have a slight advantage if your doing four-stroke motors, you can fit 4 stones so grinding goes twice as fast. Max rpm for hone is around 400rpm, The 3 leg 'glaze busters' are worthless for actual cylinder honing (they follow whatever contours you already have) A ridgid hone will allow cylinder to be honed to within 0.0001" (but 0.0003"~0.0005" is more usual. (using a low rpm hand drill and bore gauge) You can correct taper quite easily (as long as it's not too bad and any out of round you can feel as drill will 'catch. Just start at the tight spot every time and measure in multiple directions

[marksbug]

I didnt have any issues with jet skis or other 2 strokes,I did always port&deburr the ports before honing to get rid of any sharpe edges for the stone'sor guides to catch on. and remember you dont have to spin the cylinder, mount it fixed and spin the boring bar like boreing machines do. you should use a real boring head so you know how much your sneeking up on the size( witch should be about .003~.005" under the finished honed size ( hone a min of .003, a hone of .005" is best and will last longer....if it all go's right.
some small cylinders are a bitch to keep the taper out of due to flex on the non supported portion of the cylinder (of the types that have a non supported end hanging out that go's down in to the case) some are kinda thin some are thick, you deal with that as it comes. I always did mine on a sunnen ck 10 hone,I nolonger have that, I have 3 different sunnen hones now, I havent dont any small stuff other than tuch up my vw aftermarket big bore cylinders that were NOS and rat piss pitted...badly. and not the hone profile I wanted. and now at over 80000 miles...they are still sealing like the first week I put it together( witch is very good). still with big divits/pits from the rat pis, all positioned upward so not to collect any thing and use total seal piston rings witch Ive used a few hundred set of.and I recommend for all engines. the key to sealing and lasting is the hone profile, good rings, proper clearance and a GOOD AIR FILTER!!! I also ceramic coat all my piston tops and DFL coat the piston skirts&pin bores.

[crazypj]

It generally depends how big the exhaust ports are, some will 'swallow' half of hone

[marksbug]

Ive never seen any that would do that, the mercury long finger ports were a pain thats for sure. and if you didn not set all the guides just right that can cause issues on any ported cylinder. I may of alos been using longer guides,I did many times change the location of the stones to gain some clearance in the bottom webbing of some cases.