Color your Pozis bronze

[PJs]

Great to know what that thread is, thanks. It was just a thought with no reconnoitering, but you Knew! I thought I remembered you posting the Dremel pin vise or similar. I have several chuck holders made over the years and generally keep several types of countersinks in them for general deburring. Also have a couple of double ended ones. Still need to make one for an old school half inch chuck I found at Restore for $1 and restored. They are also great for holding screws and such for grinding, sanding and wire wheeling small stuff.

Great Idea on the center drills...I've got a few that are dead in the bin. That Beam compass was/is Real Nice and a fair amount of work. Your link to Elmer's steam engine plans brought up a thought for further uses of these type components. On page 261 he shows how to cut a tapered keyway. Perhaps some of these could be used for the tool bit in his boring/broaching tool. Also like the way he set up the angle in the chuck with a pin...stored that in Memory bin 1832.

Thanks Much for what you bring to the forum!! Learn something every time! ~PJ

[mklotz]

It's not worth spending the time to make one...

https://www.amazon.com/Keyless-Conve...ni+Drill+Chuck

[PJs]

Yes Sir, that is a fact...Impact...doubt it would hold up to that but for the price...and what on earth would you impact at .3-3.2mm.

Thanks for the link. ~PJ

[mklotz]

I'm guessing that the "impact" reference is probably an artifact of Chinglish translation or he saw some advertising copywriter's gushing about a chuck having "a real impact on your productivity".

If you need an impact driver at that diminutive size, just use one of those vibrating marking pens, e.g.,

https://www.amazon.com/Electric-Vibr...ct_top?ie=UTF8

Rust frozen nuts can often be shifted by dousing with Kroil and then applying the marking pen to the side of the nut in such a direction that the impulses work to unscrew the nut.

[PJs]

I'm guessing that the "impact" reference is probably an artifact of Chinglish translation or he saw some advertising copywriter's gushing about a chuck having "a real impact on your productivity".

Now that is a great idea for the engraver. I have had small screws and nuts bound up by rust but usually snap them off if the Kroil or other penetrants don't work. Great tip. Thanks Marv. ~PJ

[mklotz]

I forgot to add...

If the engraver point wants to "walk" off the nut, use a Dremel with a diamond point to make a small crater in the side of the nut and put the engraver tip in that divot.

Actually, the engraver impact wrench trick can work on fairly large nuts. I have a (totally unproven) theory that the vibration makes minute fractures in the rust that help the Kroil to penetrate deeper.

On the subject of penetrating oils...

A study done by Machinist's Workshop in the April 2007 issue tested different penetrating oils to see which did the best job of removing a rusted bolt by measuring the torque required to loosen the bolt once treated. These were the results...

Penetrating oil .......... Average load

None ..................... 516 pounds

WD-40 .................... 238 pounds

PB Blaster ............... 214 pounds

Liquid Wrench ............ 127 pounds

Kano Kroil ............... 106 pounds

ATF-Acetone mix.............53 pounds

The (ATF)-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone.

So, if you run out of Kroil (my favorite) you can always brew up some effective home brew.

[PJs]

Good tip on using a diamond tip to make a divot. I use an old Lisle impact driver set and have successfully used 1/4" socket bits with an impact adapter and socket for small stuff but it won't get into small places. However it will give you 200ft-lb of torque in 20º increments if necessary, and reversible. Amazon has a Tekton model in 3/8 but no torque specs.

I had seen a similar chart somewhere for the penetrating oils. Curious how big of bolts they used and what they were rusted into, to get those big of Torque numbers. A 3/4" Grade 8 is only rated at around 300 ft-lbs.

I've used LW for years, mainly because the Kroil is harder to find at the local stores around here but have used it off and on over the years. It is good! I've found the New LW isn't quite as good for some reason, probably has more safety chemicals than before¿ I am however going to try that ATF-Acetone one of these days. Seems there was a thread here about it awhile back. I wonder if it has something to do with the high detergents in ATF?

~PJ

[Paul Jones]

Marv and PJs,

The ATF-Acetone 50:50 mixture works the best for me. Finding an air-tight container is the real trick. I stopped using the Liquid Wrench after they changed from the stinky formula to make it smell better. I thought the old formula of LW had a unique smell that at least gave me impression it was doing something special to loosen the bolt. Also,there is an extensive discussion on HMT about the ATF-Acetone mixture at http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/h...rating-oil-159 for morer information.

Paul

[PJs]

Marv and PJs,

The ATF-Acetone 50:50 mixture works the best for me. Finding an air-tight container is the real trick. I stopped using the Liquid Wrench after they changed to stinky formula to makes it smell better. I thought the old formula of LW had a unique smell that at least gave me impression it was doing something special to loosen the bolt. Also,there is an extensive discussion on HMT about the ATF-Acetone mixture at http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/h...rating-oil-159 for morer information.

Paul

Thanks for finding that thread Paul. Hadn't thought about the anti-stink additive to the LW, but you may be right about it's new anti-effectiveness. I also noticed their Silicone spray has a similar smell, but my go to for that is Tri-Flow, but pricey. I ran across and old small can of LW the other day in my shed. Since this popped up, think I'll compare the ingredients if its on there for grins. Also think the idea of kerosene might be a worth while test. I use it for cleaning cast iron parts and notice the rust dissolves a bit and comes off pretty well with a wire brush.

I noticed in the old thread that C-Bag had mentioned Sure Shot containers (really good idea) and others had mentioned converted spray cans with a Schrader valves added. I've built a couple over the years and find they don't hold a charge very long, but I may give that a try on the ATF-Solution. Amazon has a pretty broad range of Sure Shot look-a-likes at reasonable prices. My only concern with them is cleaning them out for other uses.

Thanks for chiming in on this! ~PJ

[Philip Davies]

I use insulation tape on the bit holders as well as the longer bits. Blue is pozi, earthing(green/yellow) is Phillips. Black is for hexagonal, which I use a great deal. Tory is grey. Flat heads have no tape. With a sharpie, I make strokes to indicate size, using Latin numerals for clarity.
But I can't do this with the micro bits.