But wait; more box truck saga

[Toolmaker51]

This will seem rather incidental, until you recall stabbings by frayed steel cable.

Same ramp, that I've found remedies for other negative conditions, my wounded thumb tipping scale of project votes by one. Actually it was a tie, but I capitulated, for his suffering.
You couldn't avoid it and set the loop over the anchor. Purpose is to not foul descent of platform by ramp hanging straight down. Age of course has misshaped and worsened it. Also, equally important, it keeps rolling carts on the platform when raised, being in near-vertical position.

So cable had to go. A 1/2" thick pad, drilled 5/16" on center holds it in place, with a swaged terminal. Other end is a loop, in a worn plastic jacket, wires poking through. Not a fan of cable, but decent substitutes are limited by the thin pad, not compliant with normal hardware.

The workaround fabbed bridge for a cut link,

sectioned from rectangular tubing .18 x 2" x 3", a length of chain, and a small flat plate of hot-roll for the 'eye'. (In the morning, will check chain with other pitch sizes to get closer length needed and convenient attachment) Same 'eye' plate is unfinished on one end for adjustment of final length.

Halfway through, realized as I manipulated tools, "hey, this could double as a tray, a work table!" There's only 1-3/4" difference in radius from the 90° position to incline they designed, piece of cake!

The hook location is that length from its center to the 'eye', again 1-3/4".

As with certain DIY, it's good to hedge problems by not shaving everything off until it's clear the alterations work. For this truck to roll, that gate would be a roadblock, if unsecured.

[DIYer]

Thanks Toolmaker51! We've added your Ramp Holder to our Miscellaneous category,
as well as to your builder page: Toolmaker51's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:

Ramp Holder by Toolmaker51

tags: ramp

[Toolmaker51]

Truck was vandalized somewhat, they tore up the lift-gate switches, for that modicum of scrap value in the copper. Won't belabor the point, but replacement loom was pricey and ridiculous procedure to acquire correct replacement. Major companies should screen and monitor distributors carefully.
First switches I got unsuitable for exposure to weather, there are boots made for those combined plunger and thread size, but couldn't meet affordable minimum order. Of course, matching of items in stock has become a thing of the past.

Pic is result of planning around of switches were 100% suitable, in material anticipated to get desired completion. Inset is the prior condition, with new loom in place, mainly for testing remainder of system, after cutting away the surplus housing. Just prior to the attachment of new, all old metal was sliced off and angle ground smooth. The smaller vertical tube, 1" square 1/8" wall, is original surface conduit to protect wiring.

The new housing is 2" square tube of about .093 wall. 4 holes face rearward of 5/8" diameter for switch mount, the body is substantially larger. It's longer than 2", but that helped fishing each out of it's respective hole, as each plunger entered. A scriber point was only tool needed to 'steer' them. After tightening retaining nut, installed weatherproof boot. Each is a momentary push button, very sturdy and positive.
Top of the housing is angled a few degrees to shed water, TIG'ed in place. Lower forward corner covers opening in top of 1" square tube. Two shoulder screws fasten housing to frame of lift-gate, not welded as original (or work done by previous owner/s). That allows and simplifies work or modifications later. Sealing top of the tube instead of a plastic cap was for an "in case of" situation, not being able to fish four switches attached to the loom. I had a strip of 2" to make a 'door' in back, and attach with small self tapping screws, with the roof and a bridge at lower end to withstand clamping in mill vise.

Functions are from the bottom, 1) energizes circuit, 2) lowers platform, 4) raises platform. Switch 3) folds platform when used with the *4, unfolds used with *2.

I'd appreciate assistance selecting components to build a latching relay for 1) to not make it a two handed affair. Electricity I can reasonably kluge. Electronics is not my forte'. Found all kinds of info on the DIY process but little [none] about 12 volts running equivalent of a Delco starter motor, there is some amperage, especially to tap the 3500 pound capacity. The truck wiring has a thermo breaker for overload/ short circuit conditions.

[IntheGroove]

For 12 volt high amperage continuous use I use solenoids from golf carts. I use them when repairing hydraulic units on dump trailers...

[Frank S]

"I'd appreciate assistance selecting components to build a latching relay for 1) to not make it a two handed affair. Electricity I can reasonably kluge. Electronics is not my forte'. Found all kinds of info on the DIY process but little [none] about 12 volts running equivalent of a Delco starter motor, there is some amperage, especially to tap the 3500 pound capacity. The truck wiring has a thermo breaker for overload/ short circuit conditions."
A little more information would be helpful. So I'll take a stab at it anyway, first off you mention#1 energizes the circuit it this merely an on off switch that allows electrical supply to the control pendant? Will make the assumption that is the intention. and if so then I would speculate that the rest of the switches are dpdt momentary contact. each one energizing their respective hydraulic function while energizing the motor relay, atleast that is how I generally wire up my multiple hydraulic functions. If you are doing it another way please advise.
Note you know how to make this a 2 way conversation

[Toolmaker51]

"I'd appreciate assistance selecting components to build a latching relay for 1) to not make it a two handed affair. Electricity I can reasonably kluge. Electronics is not my forte'. Found all kinds of info on the DIY process but little [none] about 12 volts running equivalent of a Delco starter motor, there is some amperage, especially to tap the 3500 pound capacity. The truck wiring has a thermo breaker for overload/ short circuit conditions."

A little more information would be helpful. So I'll take a stab at it anyway, first off you mention#1 energizes the circuit it this merely an on off switch that allows electrical supply to the control pendant? Will make the assumption that is the intention. and if so then I would speculate that the rest of the switches are dpdt momentary contact. each one energizing their respective hydraulic function while energizing the motor relay, atleast that is how I generally wire up my multiple hydraulic functions. If you are doing it another way please advise.
Note you know how to make this a 2 way conversation

"Note you know how to make this a 2 way conversation" That is a big issue in education; only good teachers encourage that, and our Frank S is one of the best.

I'm relearning the lingo, but can describe well enough
Correct; 4 identical momentary switches, all SPST (On) Off. Amid disappointment that design isn't offered SPST Off-On to place in *4, justifying the latching relay instead. Not unlike an E-Stop, just not so obvious an invitation for pinheads to mess around with.

Lift-gate is a Waltco made in 1995, with 1 main pump and a standby. I'd bet anything main pump is same motor as a Delco starter.
The replacement loom has four leads for operation switches, for that year of manufacture, today's are different. Had to get help from a local liftgate mechanic, my process of elimination wasn't working, didn't realize second motor was a standby. Condition of the old loom wasn't much help either. Anyway, I had the loom in right, he joined the terminals of 4* and presto. Greased some fittings, took some measurements, he had the rest going in short order.

The latest switches are in exactly as he did, WITH intention of making 4* operative as a safety lock-out, forcing deliberate usage, just 100% upgrade in weather resistance. I tested briefly, it works as expected, but full test wants to warm up engine and fast idle to maintain battery power, the gate isn't self powered electrically.

Haven't done anything that would alter from running right; old switches were sticking in ON position and gate would descend (gravity+ open solenoid) by itself, unless finger was removed from switch smartly, just letting go wouldn't. UP did same, tending to push limit switch, another undesirable action. Don't know what that platform weighs, it's considerable. Not something I want running amok.

What I've learned unexpectedly, isn't just saving receipts, but labels or containers parts come in. Makes me a little smarter describing specifics, and I'm doing a note page of steps taken.
Even baby steps.

[Frank S]

"Note you know how to make this a 2 way conversation" That is a big issue in education; only good teachers encourage that, and our Frank S is one of the best.

I'm relearning the lingo, but can describe well enough
Correct; 4 identical momentary switches, all SPST (On) Off. Amid disappointment that design isn't offered SPST Off-On to place in *4, justifying the latching relay instead. Not unlike an E-Stop, just not so obvious an invitation for pinheads to mess around with.

Lift-gate is a Waltco made in 1995, with 1 main pump and a standby. I'd bet anything main pump is same motor as a Delco starter.
The replacement loom has four leads for operation switches, for that year of manufacture, today's are different. Had to get help from a local liftgate mechanic, my process of elimination wasn't working, didn't realize second motor was a standby. Condition of the old loom wasn't much help either. Anyway, I had the loom in right, he joined the terminals of 4* and presto. Greased some fittings, took some measurements, he had the rest going in short order.

The latest switches are in exactly as he did, WITH intention of making 4* operative as a safety lock-out, forcing deliberate usage, just 100% upgrade in weather resistance. I tested briefly, it works as expected, but full test wants to warm up engine and fast idle to maintain battery power, the gate isn't self powered electrically.

Haven't done anything that would alter from running right; old switches were sticking in ON position and gate would descend (gravity+ open solenoid) by itself, unless finger was removed from switch smartly, just letting go wouldn't. UP did same, tending to push limit switch, another undesirable action. Don't know what that platform weighs, it's considerable. Not something I want running amok.

What I've learned unexpectedly, isn't just saving receipts, but labels or containers parts come in. Makes me a little smarter describing specifics, and I'm doing a note page of steps taken.
Even baby steps.

Do you happen to know which series liftgate you have IE (C) (EM) (EM/TC) (HLF) or (WFL) these are the Waltco flip away style liftgates
When folded away does it rest in a cradle or does it have a mechanical safety latch to prevent it lowering accidentally. If it has neither let me know and I'll give you some pointers on how to construct one that can the released by a solenoid

[Toolmaker51]

Do you happen to know which series liftgate you have IE (C) (EM) (EM/TC) (HLF) or (WFL) these are the Waltco flip away style liftgates
When folded away does it rest in a cradle or does it have a mechanical safety latch to prevent it lowering accidentally. If it has neither let me know and I'll give you some pointers on how to construct one that can the released by a solenoid

This part, no kidding, I have memorized.......
It's fold away, retained by automatic and manually set latches, not cradled.
Model 323
Serial 323344
Capacity 3500
Date 5-95
That makes it a WDL-35 RM with 102" width (box width)