Bandsaw silver soldering fixture

[thehomeengineer]

Hi
Propane is fine to use for silver soldering. I use a Sievert torch for silver soldering and the size of nozzle can be changed to suit the application being under taken. However, Mapp gas is the way I solder the blades purely for convenience, as it is a hand held torch with no hoses.
I will try to do the video this weekend and post.
There are several grades of silver solder and the main difference is silver content, which alters the temperature and price. I use what was, called easy flo, (which I think? is known as 455 now) which has a melting point of 630-660 degree C. This is classed as low temperature silver soldering and the flux I use is the high temperature HT5 Flux Powder. This means I only have to buy one flux, which covers all the materials I will be soldering in my shop.
Hope this helps
The Home Engineer

[uv8452]

Dear Home Engineer, I was forced too to switch from welding to silver soldering. (thanks to HMT...) Soldering requires more diligence but doesn't fail. The inclination of my grinding is about 2:1. My jig has more space for the flame: 40mm lengthwise and 40mm in the back of the blade. The upper part of the clamps is 12mm wide and 4mm thick - kind of a toolmakers clamp with 2 screws. The lenght of the guide for the back of the blade (left and right side each) is 80mm - the longer the easier to adjust the blades. That helps to get the back of the soldered blade straight. If not, noise and (the imagination of) dynamic stress disturbs you. I file the excess of solder and misalignment with an extra hard 'Corinox' file.

[uv8452]

"I was taught to flip one of the blade ends over and then grind the ends at the same time." Let me add: one end <1mm offset; and grinding both 45° angles at the same time. Then the exact angle doesn't matter.
The clamping spots should be at a greater distance, say, 2"; to give room for a generous flame >> brazing time just a few seconds
What saves a lot of adjusting: precisely aligned shoulders for both backs of the blade. Like one sees it on pfredX1's photograph.

[tonyfoale]

I do it like the original post except that I grind the ends closer to 20 deg. rather that 45 deg.

[hemmjo]

very nice, have to try that..

[gcrimi2005]

https://www.homemadetools.net/forum/...906#post109906

Rispondendo in Italiano, sperando che google Translate faccia bene il suo lavoro.
Riguardo al salda lame elettrico: Per avere successo nella saldatura. i due lembi della lama devono essere puliti e privi di ruggine. (Come nuovi), ma anche i morsetti elettrici devono essere perfettamente puliti.
Per la ricottura sono consigliati più micro impulsi (al limite dell'emissione di luce), spostando a destra ed a sinistra la lama, in modo di distribuire meglio l'area della ricottura.
Ho una OPUS 400 con annesso sala lama. Prima riuscivo a saldare, ma poi ha iniziato a non attaccare più.
Presumo che i vari collegamenti elettrici interni al salda lame, vanno puliti e serrati bene.

In attesa della sua revisione, il metodo sopra descritto mi sarà utile

[thehomeengineer]

Translation thank you for the post

I answer in Italian, hoping that google translate will do its job well.
About the electric blade welder: To be successful in welding, the two edges of the blade must be clean and free of rust. (Like new), but also the electrical terminals must be perfectly clean.
For annealing, more micro pulses are recommended (to the limit of light emission), moving the blade to the right and left, in order to better distribute the annealing area.
I have an OPUS 400 with an attached blade room. Before I was able to weld, but then it started not to stick anymore.
I assume that the various electrical connections must be cleaned and tightened well.

[philippacificnw]

Now, this is a WONDERFUL DESIGN:

My Band Saw has an odd size, so I was buying blades more frequent than desired, I **Just** got my soldering equipment back out of storage, and am eager to use it!

Thanks

philip, from the Great Pacific NorthWET, Oregon Division

[the artfull-codger]

Propane is probably not hot enough and you need to be careful that you don't take the temper out of a large section of the blade with a large flame. MAPP gas would probably work using on of those small torches with the small flame.

Propane is easily hot enough you're only silver brazing 2 short lengths of thin blade together, I've been doing it for years & I grind both ends together at the same time on my disk sander so they're the same angle &wet flux with a small piece of silver solder hammered thin on the anvil between the blades into my homemade jig & heat with my plumbers torch then cleanup on the thickness, the hardest part is getting cheap 100 ft coils from autojumbles, as there's not many about I buy cheap longer blades & cut 'em down, hope this helps.