Always struggle with edge glueing

**RODaknee6** · Jul 10, 2017, 08:18 PM

I own my own woodworking and CNC business and glue up a lot of panels. I have tried different ways but always end up with a lot of sanding.

**majnun** · Jul 11, 2017, 01:34 PM

Would you please describe the technique(s) you use currently? What exactly requires sanding? The boards don't line up? My low tech approach is to ensure the boards are all the same thickness. I make sure they touch the clamp all along its length to prevent cupping. I also clamp the outer edges of the boards to align them. If need be, I will run biscuits to align them also (I used this technique on 1-1/2" x 22" x 10' boards for a media center). There are double sided clamps which squeeze edgewise and lengthwise and align the boards as well. There is also floor mounted clamping system which allows you to stack the boards edgewise and clamp them along the length and width of the boards. I don't use dowels anymore as they are inclined to be misaligned. Often, especially with cutting boards, table tops and those previously mention 10' pieces, I will take them to a neighbor's shop with a width belt sander and pay him to sand them down to a uniform and flat surface. There is sanding, but only finish sanding.

**Brownieone** · Jul 11, 2017, 01:35 PM

I run the narrow panels through the planer. For wider I glue the planed narrow panels together and deal with fewer joints !

**majnun** · Jul 11, 2017, 02:31 PM

I have a 12" planer which limits the width of my glued up panels. I also prefer the wide belt sander over a planer because there is no tear out.

**RODaknee6** · Jul 12, 2017, 09:39 AM

I want to thank everyone for their responses.
I only edge glue pieces of the same thickness. The sanding that I spoke of comes from partial ridges coming from the glue line. I line them up, I use plenty of glue but they seem to always slip somewhere.
After drying I just take them to the sanding table and smooth out the joints.

Not every glue up ends this way but enough for me to want a better way.
I do not want to use dowels or biscuits.
The reason I joined and used this forum is that I wondered if anyone had a plan, or know where to buy, one of those units that are attached to the wall for edge glueing. It looks to me like it is the best way to control all the boards at one time.
I use panels for furniture I make and also for signs and such on my CNC.
I also hate to waste lumber so I usually edge glue smaller boards to make panels and small signs on the CNC.

**Big Mike71** · Jul 13, 2017, 01:03 PM

Hi,
Just a little info from a retired wood worker and large (4foot by 12 foot) CNC operator. The best you can do is to make sure you reverse annual growth rings up and down. that will minimize the your cupping. You will never get rid of ridges from gluing because the moisture in the glue will swell the edges. Commercial 4 ft. wide surface belt sanders are on the market. it is the best way to go if you are talking lots of large glue ups. If your CNC is large enough you would save time and money by just running a pass on the ridges to make them as close to finish size as you can to cut down on wear on large belts. You have options but more info on sizes you deal with and machine capability would allow us to give more pertinent information.

**RODaknee6** · Jul 13, 2017, 01:51 PM

Thank you BigMike71
I thank you for your reply.
I was getting very close to retirement with a large chemical company when they pulled operations from this area.
I guess you can say, I kinda went to my lifetime love of woodworking to try to make a living. Hasn't been easy but still plugging away.
I do watch my growth rings closely and about everything I can to get it right but still not where I want to be with this.
I use 95% local hardwoods that I buy from local sources rough. I then plane down to sizes I need. Planer is only 15" maximum width which makes most glue-ups out of the question for planing to finish after glue up.
Most of my glue ups are for sides and backs of finish cabinetry, dressers and such but I also do smaller glue ups for some signs and such on my CNC.
I do have a 4x8 CNC and will most definitely try your suggestions.
Just for reference, I also do a lot of signmaking and murals with the CNC but using sign foams.
I try to use my CNC as much as possible since I love working with it. The time savings and amazing things it can do also keep me near it.
Again, thank you so much!

**Rpons** · Jul 13, 2017, 04:41 PM

Hi, the suggestions above cover most of the ground. I accept that I will have to smooth the edges so I make sure my design and fabrication allows me to have one good face. The hidden face just needs to be functional i.e. hold a frame or a rail. I also use wafers registered to the good face to help align.

**Big Mike71** · Jul 13, 2017, 07:39 PM

Not knowing your CNC or its power but if you contact a bit supplier you should be able to get a pretty large bit for your machine and routing (planning with it) the rough side enough to lay flat and steady then flip the panel and the same then one or two passes on a good sander should do your job.
I cut plywood, Plexiglas, Corian tops and designs with inlays and sink cut outs, aluminum, and some stainless steel. We where still using auto cad 14 made for windows 95 in XP computers. Companies will pay very lucrative for curve and complicated layouts being cut on a CNC. I know the company got over $200 and hour for the machine and myself to cut parts. I worked at a name brand luxury coach company and cut just about everything inside those multimillion dollar toys that had curves. I would love to talk to you some time and talk about the CNC. The factory closed on me also when I was 63 and no work around here at that time so I took a big cut in SS by going on at that age.
Good luck and hope I helped you a little with your question.

**drwood** · Jul 14, 2017, 12:23 AM

Originally Posted by RODaknee6

I own my own woodworking and CNC business and glue up a lot of panels. I have tried different ways but always end up with a lot of sanding.

I would suggest using Bessey or Jet parallel clamps....rotate the orientation of the clamps (under over under over ) so that the pressure applied is even across the panel...this will minimize creep and slippage and allow for more even glue ups.....the glue line can be addressed with a sharp card scraper that can easily remove glue excess and leaves a smooth finish....Good luck