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Thread: An Accidental Hand Stamp Guide

  1. #11
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    wizard69's Tools
    Nice work.


    My biggest problem with stamping parts is that I’m almost never stamping on a straight edge! Often the surface isn’t even flat. As a result I’ve gotten fairly good at double strikes that don’t look like double strikes.

    In any event I don’t have a lot of suggestions, someone already covered using a big heavy hammer. I do make a point to kill a recess when the part allows. The recess does have to be extremely deep either, just enough to give you a line to align the stamps on. Funny thing is people will think you made the recess to look fancy or protect the stamped area when in reality you just wanted a reference to reduce the crooked print.

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  2. #12
    Supporting Member rgsparber's Avatar
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    rgsparber's Tools
    Quote Originally Posted by wizard69 View Post
    Nice work.


    My biggest problem with stamping parts is that I’m almost never stamping on a straight edge! Often the surface isn’t even flat. As a result I’ve gotten fairly good at double strikes that don’t look like double strikes.

    In any event I don’t have a lot of suggestions, someone already covered using a big heavy hammer. I do make a point to kill a recess when the part allows. The recess does have to be extremely deep either, just enough to give you a line to align the stamps on. Funny thing is people will think you made the recess to look fancy or protect the stamped area when in reality you just wanted a reference to reduce the crooked print.
    I think a few typos crept into your post. I think you meant to say "I do make a point to CUT a recess..." "The recess does NOT have to be extremely deep...."

    Tis a good idea.

    Thanks,

    Rick

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  3. #13
    Supporting Member rgsparber's Avatar
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    rgsparber's Tools
    I just updated the article to include a steel stamp guide with adjustable stop.

    https://rick.sparber.org/AnAccidentalHandStampGuide.pdf

    Rick



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