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Thread: 9ft long hone extension shaft

  1. #1
    Supporting Member Frank S's Avatar
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    9ft long hone extension shaft

    I no longer have a Sunnen hone set but needed to clean up the insides of a couple of cylinders 1 was a 3 inch the other a 6 inch. I have a 2Inch ball hone but wasn't about to spend the money to buy both a 3" and a 6" for a 1 time use But I have a new Lisle 2to 7" stone glaze breaker so I made an extension for that
    9ft long hone extension shaft-img_20211003_114416.jpg
    9ft long hone extension shaft-img_20211003_122025as.jpg
    9ft long hone extension shaft-img_20211003_122418as.jpg
    9ft long hone extension shaft-img_20211003_124708as.jpg

    9ft long hone extension shaft-img_20211003_131506as.jpg

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    johncg (Oct 5, 2021), Jon (Oct 7, 2021), mwmkravchenko (Oct 4, 2021), NortonDommi (Oct 5, 2021), Philip Davies (Oct 11, 2021)

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    Thanks Frank S! We've added your Hone Extension Shaft to our Machining category,
    as well as to your builder page: Frank S's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:




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    Supporting Member mwmkravchenko's Avatar
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    I like the disc supports. I'm pretty sure without them you would end up with an out of round bore at least part way through. I will remember this Frank.

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    Supporting Member Toolmaker51's Avatar
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    Yes, very good intermediate support, guaranteed it would whip under load and/ or RPM.
    Especially with honing in a different county than motor driving it.

    PS; edit in. Supports work in lathes too, with proportionally thin material in the spindle [spindle liner/ bushings] and outboard with rolling supports, often simple as V-cut pieces of wood.
    Last edited by Toolmaker51; Oct 5, 2021 at 09:23 AM.
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  7. #5
    Supporting Member Frank S's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mwmkravchenko View Post
    I like the disc supports. I'm pretty sure without them you would end up with an out of round bore at least part way through. I will remember this Frank.
    yes correct, it is next to impossible to control a flexible shaft stone glaze breaker any distance from the motor source without guides.
    Nylon or UHMW plastic or plywood makes the best medium for disks in this application
    However all I needed to do to the bores on the 2 hydraulic cylinders was to remove any stuck deposited bits of the crumbled seals and any light rust scale that may have formed inside the bores from possible contaminated oil. The cylinders were mostly empty of oil but even still having the hoses connected moisture from the air could have entered and this crane has been laying out exposed to the elements for the past 6 years
    Never try to tell me it can't be done
    When I have to paint I use KBS products

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    Supporting Member Frank S's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Toolmaker51 View Post
    Yes, very good intermediate support, guaranteed it would whip under load and/ or RPM.
    Especially with honing in a different county than motor driving it.

    PS; edit in. Supports work in lathes too, with proportionally thin material in the spindle [spindle liner/ bushings] and outboard with rolling supports, often simple as V-cut pieces of wood.
    word of warning when spinning small diameter long pieces in a lathe if they extend beyond the back end of the spindle. It is nice to have either a bushing the size of the spindle bore to fit the part or a chuck or just 3 simple grub screws spaced equidistant around the end of the spindle.
    if their diameter is small enough then probably should have some support even if they only reach halfway to the end of the bore.
    any shafts extending very far out the back end of the lathe needs some form of support .
    Like Tool maker 51 stated sometimes just a V block will suffice. If high RPMs are involved then it needs full containment. Think whip stock . sometimes more than one support may be warranted. When things go wrong on a lathe they don't go wrong right now they go wrong long before right now almost as if pushing time backwards enough for the effects to slap you in the head before it actually happens.
    Never try to tell me it can't be done
    When I have to paint I use KBS products

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    Supporting Member Toolmaker51's Avatar
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    Bushings for spindle bore, or "liners" need not be complicated or numerous.
    Unless very small material, 2 make a good set. One rides behind chuck, the other pulls along with material. Quite easy to pull out by opening the jaws, stub can chuck up without them. Through a collet, it's easier to push or blow out. I guess a length of cord would do as well.
    Smaller stock runs fine in them, either bored to size [numerous] or with 3 or 4 small set screws to tie material and it together. Most will find 4 easier to adjust. Outside diameter of liner can be about .005 under spindle diameter, and about 1 diameter in length to not bind when being advanced or removed.
    Push a rag through beforehand and proceed work with one less concern.
    Last edited by Toolmaker51; Oct 7, 2021 at 11:12 PM.
    Sincerely,
    Toolmaker51
    ...we'll learn more by wandering than searching...

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    Frank S (Oct 8, 2021)

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    Supporting Member mwmkravchenko's Avatar
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    This cabinetmaker/carpenter uses bits of wood for many of these situations. Spindle bore is easy enough to make a bung and drill a hole. Same for V blocks. Surprising how accurately you can make up jigs and fixtures out of Baltic Birch. Takes threads well to. Just tap to 100% thread depth. Holds better than a screw actually. Necessity and desperation make for some innovation sometimes!

    Plus I'm not properly trained as a machinist. I learn and do, and read and learn more! You guys are an invaluable resource as well. Never cease to make me think.

  14. #9
    Supporting Member Toolmaker51's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mwmkravchenko View Post
    This cabinetmaker/carpenter uses bits of wood <<sniped>> Necessity and desperation make for some innovation sometimes!

    Plus I'm not properly trained as a machinist. I learn and do, and read and learn more! You guys are an invaluable resource as well. Never cease to make me think.
    Might surprise you (and others) knowing an animal such as "properly trained machinist" to be rare like hens teeth.
    Even a 4 year apprentice, with high expertise in that controlled environment, will be less competent 'outside'. A captive shop, working for a parent outfit, is far less creative than a job shop is compelled to be; therefore really the only way to get well rounded.
    I suspect a vast majority of the population here demonstrate broad experience, representing that 'everyday a different project', under such circumstances.

    As an individual, nothing pleases like hearing statements like your [I]I learn and do, and read and learn more! You guys are an invaluable resource as well....[I]
    and especially with Never cease to make me think.
    No one knows everything about it, has every resource, or ran every type of work! Some though, fail to admit.
    Sincerely,
    Toolmaker51
    ...we'll learn more by wandering than searching...

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    What was the shaft material. It looks like 3/4" EMT, that you put reducers on the end for the drill and hone.
    I assume you put a bunch of oil in to lubricate the hone and float the solids away from the stones.

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