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Thread: 6" snatch block with hook

  1. #1
    Supporting Member Frank S's Avatar
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    6" snatch block with hook

    I made this 6 inch snatch block in a similar fashion as the 4' one with the exception of adding a 5 ton Crossby hook with sfety catch.
    6" snatch block with hook-wp_20191220_17_25_58_richasa.jpg
    6" snatch block with hook-wp_20191220_17_26_16_richasa.jpg

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  2. The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to Frank S For This Useful Post:

    Inner (Dec 25, 2019), Jon (Dec 26, 2019), mwmkravchenko (Dec 24, 2019), Seedtick (Dec 24, 2019)

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    Supporting Member metric_taper's Avatar
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    It does look like you made the pulleys from scratch.

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    Supporting Member Frank S's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by metric_taper View Post
    It does look like you made the pulleys from scratch.
    Yep why waste 3/4" thick plate when I already had these thinner disks. Welding deep in the grove is always a pain and even harder to machine but a grinder will remove the air hardened bilby layer easy enough to allow taking a slight cut with HSS ground to a radius
    Never try to tell me it can't be done
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    Supporting Member metric_taper's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank S View Post
    bilby layer
    That's a new word to me, a search changed the spelling to Beilby layer. Lots of odd research on the effects of surface treatments, polishing, passivation, that affect the atomic surface structure, and seen with x-ray diffraction.
    But I understand your use as to the welding resulting in a air hardened surface layer that would be an PITA to cut through with just about any cutting tool.
    I've always found using form tools to be noisy from the cutting force vibration of the tooling.

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    mwmkravchenko (Dec 24, 2019)

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    Supporting Member Frank S's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by metric_taper View Post
    That's a new word to me, a search changed the spelling to Beilby layer. Lots of odd research on the effects of surface treatments, polishing, passivation, that affect the atomic surface structure, and seen with x-ray diffraction.
    But I understand your use as to the welding resulting in a air hardened surface layer that would be an PITA to cut through with just about any cutting tool.
    I've always found using form tools to be noisy from the cutting force vibration of the tooling.
    thanks for the correct spelling, yes the layer forms from chemical reaction of the welding process when quickly cooled called freezing the puddle.
    This layer can also be formed from friction and or work hardening and has been known to defy just about every cutting tool designed at one time or another unless you can get under it on the first cut then it will simply shear way as chips the key is getting under it in the first place. More's the reason why I usually try ti grind it away as much as possible prior to cutting.
    Even cutting through a weld with torch or a plasma can yield difficulties at times
    Never try to tell me it can't be done
    When I have to paint I use KBS products

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    mwmkravchenko (Dec 24, 2019)

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    Thanks Frank S! We've added your Snatch Block with Hook to our Jacks and Lifts category,
    as well as to your builder page: Frank S's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:




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    Supporting Member mwmkravchenko's Avatar
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    I knew about the air-hardened layer. By accident of course I learned how hard it can be.

    Didn't know it had a name.

    I like the grind the top off idea. I just went for it with a better drill bit and a lot of cutting pressure. First time I made up a flycutter I received my improper schooling
    on how hard a weld can be.



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