# Best Homemade Tools >  From Nils to Skills Uber Challenge - Compact Workshop Press

## Canobi

Hi folks  :Smile: 


So this is one of those "between" projects that sometimes happen in order to finish up another. In this case, I'm nearing the end of restoring a Dore Westbury Mk1 Milling machine and need to install a new set of bearings into the quill but lack any kind of press. By coincidence, I happen to have in my possession an old AC "buzz box" (transformer welder) that I've been looking after for a fair amount of time and it came with a pile of E6013 electrodes of varying diameters.

I've been wanting to add welding to my skill set for a while and had planned on getting some lessons and firing up the welder for ages but as is the way, so many other things to do and finish. However, just as I have a lagitimate reason to use it, irony stepped in and my time with the welder is suddenly running out as it needs to go back to it's rightful owner.

Couldn't help but see this as a challenge I had to rise to and there's nothing like an incentive to spur you on, so my mission is to try and get good enough at welding in order to make the press before I have to return the buzz box  :Stick Out Tongue: 

However, recent crappy weather conditions have cut outside play times down to a minimum of late, so pretty beads will have to wait till later, cuz right now I'm aiming at function over form (I realise that pretty beads genrally mean better welds but as long as there's no inclusions, trapped slag or porosity, I'll be happy).

Even though the press will be quite compact @ 500mm wide x 790 tall, I went for 75x38x5mm C channel for the majority of the construction as I'll be using a 32 ton bottle jack. Not that I'll ever need anything like that kind of force, my thinking behind going for such a high tonnage is due to the seals which have a tendency to perish after about a year if the jack sees it's max (or near) on a regular basis. Having some headroom means the seals won't be put under high stress, which should by all accounts, mean it will last for the natural lifespan of the seals but it's also good to know the extra tonnage is there, just in case.

To back up the "just in case" scenario, I also got a 500mm length of 100x60x5mm box section to use as a cross brace for the top of the press. In addition the that I plan on sticking plates on either side that run the entire length from top to bottom. I'm thinking 8x70mm as it will give a nice little valley to weld without having to bevel and it should be thick enough to contribute considerably to the frames tensile strength without eating too much of my small hobby budget for both lengths, any left overs will go straight into my small materials bucket (scrap metal is a rare thing in my workshop, once I get a foundry together, not even swarf will be considered scrap).

While I waited for the materials to arrive, I set about sketching out a basic design to work from, though it should be noted that the drawings aren't to scale and I omitted the modifications I have planned for the bottle jack and the side plates from the sketch below for clarity.


Given the channel side walls are only 38mm wide and the pins I'm going to make will be 24mm diameter, I opted to place a pair of thick flat bars in both corners for the hight adjustment holes in order to retain structural integrity.

Once the materials arrived and the weather was good enough to get my horizontal band saw out, I spent a good bit of time making sure everything was square before cutting the channel to length as I know my saw is off true a bit.

Here's my rig for tack welding the frame, though I had to tear it down again after realising I hadn't bevelled the edges (doh!)




Typically, as soon as it was all tacked together, the crappy weather came back and I had to wait again. During the interim, I ordered some more elecreodes as I wanted to use different types that had deeper penetration and/or a higher tensile strength than the 6013s for the frame.

Annoyingly, I could not found a local source, or a welding related vendor in the UK via the interwbs for anything but E6013, or E7018 (which is primarily a DC rod). In the end I resorted to searching eBay to see if I could find other types being sold by UK vendors. Luckily there are a couple that sell a good variaty, so got a small pack of x40 2.5mm E6011 from one and a 1lb pack 2.5mm E7016 1H4 R from the other, both of which are ac friendly types of electrode.

The 6011 are great for rusty/painted/grimy situations where cleaning and prep is difficult at best or simply not an option as they will cut right through the lot. They will also save your skin if measurements went south somewhere and the parts don't fit up properly as these rods have been designed to fill gaps and holes no problem (often referred to as a "fast freeze" rod because the weld puddle cools so quickly).

The E7016 is an intersting beast as it appears that it's mostly sold this side of the pond. Just like it 7018 cousin, these are a hydrogen free rod and are said to be great to handle and produce deep welds and pretty beads in the right hands due to good weld puddle visibility and flow.

These rods in particular have an extra characteristic in that they are also hydrogen resistant (as denoted by the 1H4 R suffix). Totally unlike it's E7018 cousin, these don't require rod ovens for pre heat and reconditioning, as well as special storage conditions when used for coded, or critical work. Hydrogen free flux coatings have to stay absolutely dry or they cause micro porosity in the welds due to hydrogen out gassing from the hot metals.


Again I had to sit chomping the bit for a few days, this time after the rods arrived but the weather finally broke the end of last week and I was able to get the frame welded up. I first burned a couple of each to see haw they behaved and chose the 7016s for the outer seams due to poorer restrikability as I didn't fancy my chances trying them on a double inside corner fillet:






I welded the inside seams with the 6011 and while they are deep and functional, I was too embarrest to take pics as the beads produced by the "fast freeze" characteristic don't make for any kind of viewing when used by the cackhanded  :Stick Out Tongue: 

Had good weather in the evening the next day, so I welded on the cross brace using the 7016 at both ends and then put a bunch of short welds across the length on both sides to allow for flex. Unfortunately more prep and clean up was needed before I could start and I got caught out by the sun setting earlier. As such, things got a bit hard to see by the end and as a result, the welds are rather ugly and not very uniform but they are substantial and went in deep:





With the frame essentially complete, I focused on the hight adjustment brackets again as I saw a issue with using two per side (as shown in my sketch), due to the fact there wouldn't be enough access for the electrode to weld the inside seams properly with on my 35mm between them, so I deviated from the plans and opted to use two single 30x60mm bars instead.

Since the applied forces will be going directly downward and the bars will sit in the centre of the channel (which is the weakest point), I used some 20x50mm bar to make a pair of feet for the brackets to spread the stresses away from the centre of the channel in case there's a chance of it buckling due to unfavourable circumstance.

It might well be a lack of understanding on my part but it seemed like a good idea nonetheless and as the welds for the feet don't contribute structurally in any way, I'm going to grind them flush with the frame so they don't interfere with the receiver platform when adjusting it:




Had a spell of sun in the afternoon the following day, so it was back to it. This time I took the 30x60mm bars to my granite surface plate in order to measure and mark the hole centres and cut lines:


I then punched the hole centres for later, cut the brackets to length and bevelled them in preparation for welding:


While I wait for decent weather again, my next move is to make the receiver platform. The bolt holes are arbitrary so I'll drill them to size right off the bat. The holes for the pins will be drilled to 2mm to help align them with the bracket punch marks so I can make the pin holes in the bracket and receiver in one go. I then plan to turn a couple of large spacers just a shade over 75mm long so the table doesn't bind while raising and lowering it. They will also help prevent any twisting that might occur if the part being pressed isn't in the centre of the receiver.

I'll update with pics later but for now, stay safe, have fun and keep those chips flyin'  :Wink:

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Andyt (Sep 22, 2018),

high-side (Sep 22, 2018),

Jon (Sep 21, 2018),

Kevic (Sep 21, 2018),

LMMasterMariner (Sep 22, 2018),

philipUsesWood&Brass (Oct 13, 2018),

PJs (Sep 24, 2018),

that_other_guy (Nov 24, 2018),

Toolmaker51 (Sep 21, 2018)

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## Toolmaker51

Wonderful. Design eliminates drill through channel, great idea.
A 32T jack is slooow moving, 2 things will help you. 1] scrap bucket might be full of shim stock, equals less pumping. 2] If there is room, make thick spacers for lower side of bed 1/2 distance between elevation holes. Sandwich a pair, drill straight through where they meet.

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PJs (Sep 24, 2018),

ranald (Feb 21, 2019)

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## Canobi

Thank you toolmker51  :Smile: 

The ram isn't too bad but as you say, shims will help reduce the amount of travel needed and are on the cards for later. I hadn't thought about bracing the lower half of the receiver platform, I should have some stock to do that with, thanks for the suggestion.

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## Tuomas

Are you welding with a transformer? 
It looks that you could use little higher current, and try to place grounding so that weld area is similarly grounded from both ends of the weld.
That rod should make somewhat smooth surface, alltought not the best possible.
Looks like arc travels from side to side, usually that happens when grounding could be better.

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bigtrev8xl (Nov 5, 2018),

Canobi (Sep 22, 2018),

high-side (Sep 22, 2018),

Moby Duck (Sep 29, 2018),

Toolmaker51 (Sep 22, 2018)

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## Canobi

Hi Tuomas, thanks for chiming in  :Smile: 

I'm using an old TOPWELD 180A transormer welder. The ground cable is attached to the weld table from underneath via a magnetic earth clamp which is located directly under the frame. All the rods I'm using for the press are 2.5mm and I've been running them at about 75~80 amps.

I've noticed that there is a divide of opinions very akin to marmite regarding E6013, one either loves em or hates em, I haven't used them enough to make up my mind yet but feel I will be able to get the hang of them eventually. The reason the welds look so different to each other is that I was using the bracket feet for a bit of practice, since they're a non structural part and the beads will be ground back anyway. It had occured to me that I probably could have just tacked them in place and be done but I'll take what I can where I can with this one as I want it to be as good as I can manage for my own piece of mind.

I will up the amperage a little for the brackets themselves when the time comes and just run straight beads to see if I get better results but it's a bit trial and error as the amp markings were well and truely gone and I even reconditioned the cover as it was so totally beat up and rusty. I noted that the 7016s have a recommended amp range of 55~85 on the packet and E6013 need a bit less, so was aiming for the sweet spot somewhere in the middle ground of the two max ranges.

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Toolmaker51 (Sep 22, 2018)

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## Toolmaker51

> Thank you toolmker51 
> 
> The ram isn't too bad but as you say, shims will help reduce the amount of travel needed and are on the cards for later. I hadn't thought about bracing the lower half of the receiver platform, I should have some stock to do that with, thanks for the suggestion.



Tip offered is that they can be inserted as required, maybe with a tab outboard either side of beam to retain/ locate them, really just slightly more sophisticated shims.
I've used that idea many times. First ever may have been drilling secondary cross holes in auto jackstands, again 1/2 spacing of those supplied. Made security one step easier than jacking to some arbitrary height and car frame being an increment too low to accept stand.

I live near exact geographic center of US. Farther south the stereotypical increments are concrete block  :Frown:  ! We don't do that here.

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## Canobi

Hi guys  :Smile: 

It stopped raining long enough to make a little headway today. First up was to cut two 100mm lengths of some 2.3/4" bar stock to make the spacers with:


While my saw diligently worked it's way through the bars, I ground back the welds on the bracket feet and lower frame joints:


Other side


Once that was done I risked it for a biscuit and broke out the buzz box to weld the brackets in place. As had been suggested, I knocked up the ampage a bit and after tacking the brackets in place, I opted to have a crack at vertical up using the E6011 rods:

Attempt #1 front left


Attempt #2 back left


Attempt #3 front right


Attempt #4 back right


1,2 and 3 are a bit lumpy as the electrode holder cable kept catching on the lip of the table, 4 looks great as I lifted a good length of the cable onto the table top so it didn't pull while I was trying to manipulate the rod. The result speaks for itself and I'm very happy with how well that one turned out  :Smile: 

I want to fire up the lathe tomorrow and make the spacers, it's been a while since I've turned anything, what with welding hogging all my time  :Stick Out Tongue: 

Catch you all again soon...

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that_other_guy (Nov 24, 2018)

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## Canobi

Hi folks  :Smile: 

I made a start on the spacers today and the first one is nearly done, though it's been tough for my little old lathe working such a large piece. I'm now facing the spacer to length as I didn't like how much blade stick out there would have to be using my parting tool, it's slow going but safer:


More soon...

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olderdan (Sep 24, 2018),

PJs (Sep 24, 2018),

Toolmaker51 (Sep 23, 2018)

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## PJs

Great write up, pics and solid design Canobi. I predict this will be a great thread!

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Canobi (Sep 24, 2018)

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## Canobi

Your most kind PJs, Thank you  :Smile:

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PJs (Sep 24, 2018)

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## Toolmaker51

> Hi folks  I made a start on the spacers today and the first one is nearly done, though it's been tough for my little old lathe working such a large piece. I'm now facing the spacer to length as I didn't like how much blade stick out there would have to be using my parting tool, it's slow going but safer: More soon...



Yes Canobi, the present set-up [part length-diameter-depth of chuck jaws] exceed border of parting off that cylinder. MAYBE right up at the jaws, nowhere else. 
I'd hesitate less with a live center in the open end; scoring a line for the saw. Just set dial zero a couple hundred short of penetrating the hole, but perfect parting cutter alignment and dependable flow of coolant would be fairly critical. None of those avoid stick-out; biggest problem of all.

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Moby Duck (Sep 29, 2018)

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## Canobi

Yeh, I probably should have used a live centre but got by. I worked out that by changing the order of operations, it shouldn't be such hard going for the next one. Will post more soon...

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## Canobi

Hi folks  :Smile: 

I started figuring out a way to mount the bottle jack yesterday morning before going to work. After some tinkering I favoured using the remainder of the C channel to make two short lengths I can weld on either side of the frame to make the footing.

Initially I was going to drill holes in the base of the jack but opted to use a non destructive method instead. To that end I chopped a length of 50x50x5mm right angle into four equal widths of 50mm to make hold downs:



I then cleaned off the mill scale from the channel pieces for marking and centre punching, at this point I hadn't worked a system for the back end and as I'm having a drill crisis at the moment, I took the front parts with me and borrowed the drill press at work during my break times to drill out the holes.

I've been using the bottom of the press frame for mocking up and working things out:



This morning I took the remaining two right angle pieces and cut off most of one side. I had already centre punched them so made sure it was the blank side I was going to cut and left about 10mm to act as a riser, unlike the front hold downs, the rear ones will be bolted down vertically:


While it was on my grinder, I used the outside diameter of the grinding disc to cut a radius in the corner of the left side clamp to give some clearance:


I then marked out the clamp holes on the rear channel and centre punched them after taking this pic:


Here's the mock up of the arrangement:



I will be borrowing works drill press again for these parts as well later and will report back again soon.

Until then, TTFN  :Wink:

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PJs (Sep 27, 2018),

Seedtick (Sep 28, 2018),

Toolmaker51 (Sep 27, 2018)

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## PJs

404 error not found!!  :ROFL: 

Looking Good Canobi or should I say Tigger!

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## Canobi

Thanks PJs  :Smile: 

Not sure what went on with the missing pic, it was up and working when I posted. I'm using a different hosting site for it so should be working now.

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## Toolmaker51

*





 Originally Posted by Canobi


Hi folks...........After some tinkering I favoured using the remainder of the C channel to make two short lengths I can weld on either side of the frame to make the footing.



*



> 



Structural shapes [c-channel, I-beam, wide flange, round/ square/ rectangular tube, angle & unequal leg] offer thickness and profile combinations begging use in this manner; by re-configuring their contours. This avoids what otherwise proves labor intensive, even counter productive use of solid materials.

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PJs (Sep 29, 2018)

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## owen moore

Canobi, your photography is peerless. Those are some of the finest pictures I have seen on here!

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Canobi (Oct 3, 2018),

PJs (Sep 29, 2018)

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## Canobi

You are too kind good sir, I am humbled by your praise

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## Canobi

I made a little progress but things got a bit busy and I haven't had time to post anything until now.

I got the mount for the bottle jack welded in place and did a test fit:







I found I can move the jack about 1/2" either direction of centre prior to tightening the rear clamps, which could actually come in handy. I hadn't considered making the jack moveable but may well modify it for greater travel in the future.

Next up is to finish putting the holes in the hight adjustment blocks. I got one done and started a second yesterday but unfortunately my mag drill packed up good and proper  :Frown: 

As luck would have it though, I just found out today that R&D at work recently got one, so I'm hoping if I ask very nicely, they might let me use it. I'll probably have to take the frame in to work with me as I doubt very much they'll let me take the mag drill off site but that's fine with me....

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## Toolmaker51

> I found I can move the jack about 1/2" either direction of centre prior to tightening the rear clamps, which could actually come in handy. I hadn't considered making the jack moveable but may well modify it for greater travel in the future.



Whenever it was I first started using hydraulic presses, being able to relocate a ram proves a definite advantage. Not everything is symmetrical, or fits between the uprights conveniently.

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Canobi (Oct 10, 2018)

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## Canobi

Hi folks  :Smile: 

I nanaged to get a half day this week so spent some time after I finished to make use of works mag drill.

Of course, I should have realised things wouldn't be so straightforward and the first little spanner I came across was that the quill on works mag drill is totally opposite to mine and terminates in a stub, not a bore. 

There was an arbor for anular cutters that came with it but it's 6" long, so it doesn't leave much daylight underneath and total travel is only 50mm.

Given the limitations, I did the receiver platform holes first but will have to start over as ironically, the holes for the pins (which are critical) wandered off centre and the bolt holes ended up being dead nuts, which is entirely the opposite scenario I was going for.

The second spanner showed up when trying to put the holes in the hight blocks. Mounting it directly to the frame didn't work as there wasn't enough travel to cut the hole all the way through. I couldn't mount it to the same surface that the frame was sitting on either as the cutter wouldn't lift high enough to clear the blocks, so I threw the towel in, put stuff away and did some hard thinking all day at work.

Well, the only thing I could think of at the time was to cut a length of 4"x1/2" plate and tack weld it between the blocks so the mag drill had a surface it could attach to at the correct hight but that has a set of problems all it's own that took a great deal of figuring out how to do and involved a lot of side projects.

It wasn't until I was sitting down in my workshop contemplating the problem, cup of tea in hand, that a much less complicated solution presented itself when my eyes reston on a couple lengths of shock absorber shaft my friend had dropped off a few days ago. Unlike most shocks I'm used to seeing, these are thick walled hollow tubing and the first thing I noticed is that the bore looked to be just right size for the shank of my anular cutter:



After tidying up the roughly cut end with my grinder, I tested my theory and found it to be a perfect fit with just .025mm of wiggle room so I decided it would be simpler to just make the shock into a shorter adaptor for the mag drill.

After grinding some flats for drilling at 90° to each other at both ends, I took the piece with me to work and I used their drill press to make some holes for locking grub screws.

It was here I found out just how hard this stuff is to work with and if the bit stopped cutting enough to rub, it was game over, even for brand new factory ground bits. 

I hadn't realised how blunt the bit had got after the first hole, so that resulted in the first divet, attempting to cut the first divet with new bit only succeeded in bunting it. 

I then reground the first wrecked bit as that one was mine and proceeded to cut the second hole, which almost went all the way through, so I reground it again and was able to finish it but not without a small struggle.

Figuring in the fresh grind, I started the first hole on the other side, but even that small amount of cutting meant the bit was blunt on the outer flanks of the cutting edge and once again it was game over after just starting it, thus producing the second divet.

Given it's behaviour so far I fretted a little over tapping this stuff but it turned out to be much more amicable toward that job and happily there were no dramas. Despite only having one locking screw, the anular cutter is very tightly held and definitely not going anywhere and with at least one hole made at each end, it wasn't a totally lost cause, so I went and got the mag drill from R&D.

It was at this point I found spanner number three as the quill stub was too large for the bore by 1mm. After getting home I chucked it up in my four jaw and managed to get it to within .00025" of centre and bored it at low speed using carbide tooling:




It fits the mag drill stub with just the tiniest amount of interference, which is exactly what I was aiming for, my biggest worry was overshooting and ending up with play, so I was very happy with the results.

I haven't had a chance to try it out yet, I'll have to wait till Monday for that but hopefully I'll be able to finish the holes so I can finally progress with the build.

Until then, have a good weekend and I'll catch you all round  :Wink:

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PJs (Oct 14, 2018),

that_other_guy (Nov 24, 2018),

Toolmaker51 (Oct 12, 2018)

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## wizard69

Really nice work with the write up and pictures. That probably doubles your work effort but we do enjoy your posts.

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PJs (Oct 14, 2018)

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## Canobi

Thank you wizard69  :Smile: 

I'm not very articulate verbally, so tend to let my actions do most of the talking when I'm filming for my YouTube channel. Write ups for forums are a different ballgame and while it does add to the workload, I feel it is an essential part of the process. Not least as it gives a bit of background and context as to why procedures, decisions and operations were chosen but also as it gives me a chance to inject just a little entertainment value for those reading them.

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Toolmaker51 (Oct 13, 2018)

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## Toolmaker51

> Thank you wizard69 ........forums are a different ballgame and while it does add to the workload, I feel it is an essential part of the process. Not least as it gives a bit of background and context as to why procedures, decisions and operations were chosen but also as it gives me a chance to inject just a little entertainment value for those reading them.



100% motivation to post as we do here, is preservation and distribution of ideas and technique. I'm positive Canobi's thoughts relate with a huge percentage of readers - whether those who post as well, or those cruising by [don't want to label them as lurkers].

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PJs (Oct 14, 2018),

that_other_guy (Nov 24, 2018)

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## Canobi

Hi folks  :Smile: 

Well, I've finally managed to put holes in the hight blocks and thankfully, they came out on centre but it wasn't without it's trials and tribulations, as can be seen by the score marks made by the mag drill coming loose:


Unfortunately one of the grub screws in my arbor got well and truely jammed so I had to hacksaw through both to get it off  :Frown: 

I blame myself for not choosing the correct size or type of grub screw, should have been bigger and with a flat on the end, not pointed but at least it worked as intended.

Whe weather was very nice yesterday so I welded on the feet using the last of the 2.5mm 6013 but here I deviated from my plans again.

Given that the jack will be upside down, the greatest forces will be applied on the upward stroke. So to counter the possibility of toppling the press over backward, I made them much longer and biased the frame's position forward to about 3" from the front.

I had two and a half rods left, so just for kicks and giggles, I also welded the inside seams and was very surprised at how well they came out, I'm guessing the heat build up probably helped there:










I also decided to take one half of the botched receiver and add it to the top as extra bracing, always better to be safe than sorry in my opinion. 

The four holes made good weld points and I filled them in with a combination of 6011, then topped those with 7016 and used the last of 7016 rods to weld both ends to the box section. Afterwhich I stitch welded down both sides with 6011 as I still have a ruck of those:


And finally, here is the press with the receiver in place:


Unfortunately, Mr bozo showed up when I was measuring and cutting to make the new receiver and I forgot to measure it's actual length when I got it and it turned out to be 2mm oversize. The error occured when I measured my centres from each end which resulted in the holes being slightly out of alignment by 1mm each side.

Luckily the holes I put in are 24mm dia and I had a short length of 22mm bar which was able to fit between the offset holes snugly and after taking a measurement from the top of the receiver to the underside of the top beam on both sides, the results showed it to be parallel, so I was mighty relieved.

More soon....

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high-side (Oct 26, 2018),

JoeH (Oct 23, 2018),

PJs (Oct 22, 2018),

that_other_guy (Nov 24, 2018),

Toolmaker51 (Oct 22, 2018)

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## JoeH

I look forward to pics with the thing in use. Cool.

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Canobi (Oct 30, 2018)

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## Canobi

A friend of mine brought his cordless drill around to mine this afternoon, so I was able to add the springs used to return the ram. The springs came from a recycled 8' trampoline and luckily saved some of them. The flat bar is offset due to the hand pump but that doesn't effect it's performance, though I wish I had a longer one as it's of preferred a more pleasing symmetry but I can live with that little detail.

There's more to be fone to it yet though, my plan for tomorrow is to turn a ring and weld it on the ram side of the flat bar so there's no chance of the bar slipping off the ram and on the receiver side, I'm going to weld on a pressing tool alignment stub (most likely made from a shock absorber shaft), apon which I can attach various pressing tools of my own making later.

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PJs (Oct 29, 2018)

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## Canobi

Hi folks  :Smile: 

I got started on the retention ring for the ram yesterday evening, for that I used the offcut left over from the stock I used to make the spacers:


The ring was still a shade undersize when I reluctantly had to call it quits and drag myself to bed (early shift this week):


After work next day, I finished boring it to size and cut a bevel on one side for welding:


Once all the machining had been done, I checked it for fit, which turned out to be dead nuts as it rotates freely but there's no side play at all:


With the ring finished and not much daylight left, I got busy setting thing up for welding. I was simply going to tack it in place as realistically that's all it would need but it's any excuse for practice with me and welding still, so I ran four short beads using E6011, which I still have in ready supply:





Earlier on in the day I had attempted to cut a short length from one of the shock absorber shafts I have but that proved to be more difficult than I had time for and I also didn't want to risk blunting my saw blade. So with the welding done, I took a second and more leisurely look to see what materials I had that I could use for the tool mounting peg.

After some thought though, I figured it wouldn't have to be made of anything special as it won't see any of the forces the press will produce, so I settled for a short piece of mystery metal I had removed from a bar for sample turning awhile ago.

After giving it a quick clean up, I cut a recess for locking screws 10mm back from the front face using my parting tool, having turned a heavy undercut on the other end beforehand as a way to help keep the weld beads from interfering with the tooling:


I centred it up over the ring underneath and marked it's position but it was dark by the time I finished so I will have to wait till tomorrow before I can weld it on:

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PJs (Oct 31, 2018)

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## Canobi

Hi folks  :Smile: 

I didn't have much time for tinkering after work today, being Halloween but did make some progress. I gave the peg a rethinking and decided to change tack as my original plan would mean turning quite large stock to make the tooling, something my small lathe is really not too keen on. 

Instead, I opted to drill a 12mm hole in the centre of the retention ring with the intention of welding a 30mm length of M12 threaded bar in the hole, which allows more flexibilty in regards to the size of the tooling I will be able to attach.

Of course, it wasn't until after I'd drilled the hole to size that I realised I could have made things easier for myself if I'd threaded the hole for M12, thereby negating the need to find and rig up something that will keep the threaded stub aligned during the weld process:


Later this evening with the trick or treating out of the way and the kids put to bed, I set about making the threaded stub:



After the turning the end, I stuck the stub in the vice and cut a slot for a screwdriver using my dremel tool and a cutoff wheel:



Just need to weld it in place now, with luck I'll be able to do that tomorrow:

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PJs (Nov 1, 2018)

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## Canobi

Hi again folks  :Smile: 

I was blessed with good weather today so I welded the threaded stud in place. This time however, I opted to do a pre heat as I've noticed that after heat has built up in whatever I've been welding, the puddle penetrates much better and leaves a more uniform and flatter bead. 

With only a couple mm clearance between the face of the ram and the return bar, a flat bead is exactly what is called in this situation as it will negate the need to grind it down after, which would be a pain in the rear end at best with the ring surround it and it being of a much smaller diameter than any of my angle grinder discs:


The weld puddle didn't behave quite as expected with the protruding stud and this time I got inclusions in three places but by shear chance, they ended up quite evenly spaced and of similar size, making the weld look a bit like a three spoked wheel:


However, I made an error showing what a welding novice I really am and I forgot to protect the bore of the ring (as can be clearly seen) and it ended up getting covered with bead shot, which was a paim to clean up but once they were all removed, it fit like a glove again:


Later this evening I plan on turning something I can put on the stud. To that end I'm using a chuck of some mystery steel (I get it inexpensively by the kilo now and again) that may have been heat treated in some way.

The key factors being that there looks to be some kind of scale on them that's a bit thicker than the mill scale I'm used to seeing. I also have to use carbide as HSS lasts only seconds and despite this one only being 1.1/4" dia, my lathe has struggled to cut it in the past due to its gummy like nature, which produce long lethal birdnest like chips and the occational spark:

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PJs (Nov 2, 2018)

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## Canobi

Hey guys  :Smile: 

After dinner, I got onto making the peg. The first thing I did was to face the part and skim off the scale and rust. I just used my three jaw for that as it was nice and quick:


Once that was done, I swapped to my four jaw, turned the part round, dialled it in and did the same the other end, in this case though, it already had a shallow but somewhat off centre hole drilled in it, unfortunately though, I got quite carried away with precedings and forgot to take pics of a few stages, sorry.

Anyhoo, despite the off centre hole, I took a 6mm bit and drilled it to just over an inch deep and while I wasn't too keen on the way the bit flexed while I did so, I wasn't concerned about it being off centre as there's a simple way to bring a hole back on centre without having to bore it all the way down.

The trick is to take a small boring bar and used it to true up the hole just enough to clear the offset while making sure not to overshoot the tap drill diameter. 

The bore need only go to depth of about 10mm or so into the hole and once done, it's then possible to swap back to drilling again as the portion of the hole that has just been bored acts as a drill guide which prevents the larger bits from wandering as it cuts the rest of the hole to depth:


I then put the lathe in back gear and used it to get the tap started:


It did quite a good job and managed quite a few turns and then finished it by hand when it got deep enough:


With that done, the only thing left to do was test fit it:


Well that's it for today's progress, I'll catch you all again soon  :Wink:

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Andyt (Nov 3, 2018),

G.Paul (Nov 4, 2018),

JRock (Nov 2, 2018),

kirk332 (Nov 2, 2018),

PJs (Nov 2, 2018),

Priemsy (Nov 3, 2018),

Seedtick (Nov 2, 2018),

Shanty (Nov 4, 2018),

that_other_guy (Nov 24, 2018),

volodar (Nov 5, 2018)

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## Canobi

Hey guys  :Smile: 

I somehow managed to pull my left shoulder muscle a couple weeks ago and had to wait till it was better before I could lug stuff around in order to finish the press.

Thankfully it's all better now and I was able to modify the jack to work upside down this morning.

First job was to drain the oil out of the bottle jack:


I tried for ages to remove the outer shell but it just wouldn't budge, so I begrudgingly carried on with it fully essembled.

The hole used to fill the jack with oil measured 8mm, which is nearly the correct size for a 1/8" BSP (@8.8mm). I don't have a 8.8mm drill bit, so I used the next closest one I had which is 8.5mm, which worked just fine.

I specifically bought a 1/8" BSP machine tap for the hole as I'd had a hunch I wouldn't be able to disassemble the jack due to lack of Abom79 size tools and using a machine tap seemed a good way to prevent chips from dropping inside the jack.

I then assembled the parts for the reservoir system, made up of a 1/8" and 3/8" male threaded BSP fitting with 6mm hose barbs, 500mm of oil resistant hose with 6mm bore, a clip lock spaggetti tub and a couple of matching dowty washers for the BSP fittings:


Once I was happy that the fitting would seal nice and tight on the jack, I removed it, stuck the jack on its side (handily the carry handle made a good impromptu stand for the front) and I proceeded to fill the jack with oil till it was totally full.

The replacement oil I got was a little more viscous than the oil I drained (not so great in winter but better for pressures exceeding 20 ton) and as my time was limited, I opted to help the bubbles release quicker using a small paintbrush handle, which sped things up considerably:


With the jack full and with funnel still in place, I started carfully pumping the jack to fill the ram void, making sure not to suck air into the jack as I did so. Once the ram was fully extended, I shoved a handful of paper towels under the jack and removed the funnel to let the excess run off, which wasn't much as I was careful to fill the last portion a little bit at a time to avoid ending up with a full funnel.

I then screwed the reservoir back on, added a few mills of oil to cover the 3/8" BSP fitting sticking up from the bottom of the tub and returned the ram to it resting position, which purged the use from the tube:


With that done, the only thing left to do was put the jack in pride of place and test it for soundness and rigidity. For that I stuck a 1/2" plate on the receiver with a short length of 2" bar on it and had at it till I thought the flimsy jack lever was about to fold up on me. To my surprise and delight, the frame didn't make a sound during the test and the ram returned as it should do so I'm very pleased with the results:


Still needs a little refining as I want to replace the clip lock tub for an aluminium or stainless container of some sort, as well.as.somehwere to fix it ro and I believe the jack can be further modified to work the other way round so the lever is on the right hand side so pumping force is applied downward, not up as it currently stands but that's for another day.

Right now, I have a milling machine restoration that requires completion, so until next time, stay safe, stay happy and keep those chips flyin'  :Wink:

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PJs (Nov 20, 2018),

Seedtick (Nov 20, 2018),

that_other_guy (Nov 24, 2018),

Toolmaker51 (Nov 19, 2018)

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## PJs

Great job Canobi and glad there were no "Sound" issues! Love the reservoir too and being translucent gives a clue of levels, bubbles and condition of the fluid....looks like a spaghetti noodle container I have.

PJ

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## Canobi

> Great job Canobi and glad there were no "Sound" issues! Love the reservoir too and being translucent gives a clue of levels, bubbles and condition of the fluid....looks like a spaghetti noodle container I have.
> 
> PJ



Lol, well I suppose I could have used structural integrity instead but "soundness" is as legitimate a way to describe same in my book  :Stick Out Tongue: 

Initially I used the spaggetti tub to help me to find the amount of extra oil that was required. As it was clear, it was also useful for all the reasons you stated above, though I'd prefer an alu or stainless container if I can find one. I've been looking at repurposing either a soap dispenser, gravity feed paint pot or drinking bottle as they would be big enough to hold the extra oil and fairly simple to convert.

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PJs (Nov 21, 2018)

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## DIYer

Thanks Canobi! We've added your Shop Press to our Brakes and Presses category,
as well as to your builder page: Canobi's Homemade Tools. Your receipt:















Shop Press
 by Canobi

tags:
press, bottle jack

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